Bombs/Explosives/Experiments

           Vinegar: 3-5% Acetic Acid
        Sani-Flush: 75% Bisulfate
Tincture of Iodine: 47% Alcohol, 4% Iodine
   Rubbing Alcohol: 70% or 99% Isopropyl alcohol

[*-> Household Substitutes <*-] 
Chemical Name                     Household Substitute
     Acacia   	                                 Gum           Arabic
     Acetic                 Acid                 Vinegar
     Aluminum               Oxide                Alumia
     Aluminum               Potassium Sulfate    Alum
     Aluminum               Sulfate              Alum
     Ammonium               Carbonate            Hartshorn
     Ammonium               Hydroxide            Ammonia       Water       
     Ammonium               Nitrate              Saltpeter
     Ammonium               Oleate               Bannana       Oil
     Barium                 Sulfide              Black         Ash
     Carbon                 Carbonate            Chalk
     Calcium                Hypochloride         Bleaching     Powder
     Calcium                Oxide                Lime
     Calcium                Sulphate             Plaster    of Paris
     Carbonic               Acid                 Seltzer
     Carbon                 Tetrachloride        Cleaning      Fluid
     Cetyltrimethylammonium Bromide              Ammonium      Salt
     Citric                 Acid                 Citrus        Fruits 
     Ethylene               Dichloride           Dutch         Fluid
     Ferric                 Oxide                Iron          Rust
     Furfuraldehyde                              Bran          Oil
     Glucose                                     Corn          Syrup
     Graphite                                    Pencil        Tip
     Hydrochloric           Acid                 Muriatic      Acid
     Hydrogen               Peroxide             Peroxide
     Lead                   Acetate              Sugar      of Lead
     Lead                   Tetro-oxide          Red           Lead
     Magnesium              Hydroxide            Milk       of Magnesia
     Magnesium              Silicate             Talc
     Magnesium              Sulfate              Epsom         Salts
     Methyl                 Salicylate           Wintergreen   Oil
     Napthalene                                  Mothballs
     Phenol                                      Carbolic      Acid
     Potassium              Bicarbonate          Cream      of Tartar	
     Potassium              Bitartrate           Saltpeter
     Potassium              Chromium Sulfate     Chrome        Alum
     Potassium              Nitrate              Saltpeter
     Silicon                Dioxide              Sand
     Sodium                 Bicarbonate          Baking        Soda
     Sodium                 Borate               Borax
     Sodium                 Carbonate            Washing       Soda
     Sodium                 Chloride             Salt
     Sodium                 Dioxide              Sand
     Sodium                 Hydroxide            Lye
     Sodium                 Hydroxide            Drain         Cleaner    
     Sodium                 Silicate             Water         glass
     Sodium                 Sulfate              Grauber's     Salt
     Sodium                 Thiosulfate          Photographers hypo
     Sulfuric               Acid                 Battery       Acid
     Sucrose                                     Cane          Sugar
     Zinc                   Chloride             Tinner's      Fluid
     Zinc                   Sulfate              White         Vitriol
                            
[  ] * Generating Chlorine Gas * 
    Get a large bottle and put AJAX in the bottom.  Then pour some Ammonia
down into the bottle.  Since the gas is heavier than air, it will stay down
in there unless you use large amounts of AJAX or Ammonia.

[  ] * Chlorine + Turpentine * 
    Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in Turpentine.  Quickly drop it
into the bottle of Chlorine.  It should give off alot of black smoke and
probably start burning...

[ ] * Chlorine Fuse Bomb * 
    Materials:
    -1 Large explosive (M-80 or above)
    -1 Large cylindrical cardboard container such as kool-aid drink mix
    -1 Roll of black electrical tape
Fill the container half-way with comet cleanser.  Then nestle the explosive
on the cleanser.  Pour more cleanser until container is filled, leave
explosive's wick sticking out above the comet, stick fuse through plastic top
to the container tightly.  To ignite this bomb just light the fuse and move
quickly.  The bomb will explode and fill the air with poison gas.

[ ] * Chlorine Gas * 
    Materials:
    -1 Two liter bottle
    -1 Measuring cup
    -1 Bottle of chlorox bleach
    -1 Bottle of Ammonia
Pour 1/2 a cup of chlorox into the bottle.  Pour 1/2 cup of Ammonia into the
bottle.  Quickly screw on the cap to the bottle and throw the bottle far
away.  The cap will blow off releasing a deadly cloud of fumes.

[ ] * Chloride of Azode *

A good example of how ammonium nitrate can be chemically mixed with other
substances, and impart its explosive qualities to these otherwise nonexplosive
materials, is in the preparation of chloride of azode.

1. A quantity of chlorine gas is collected in a small glass beaker, and placed
        upside down on another glass beaker containing a water solution of
        ammonium nitrate.
2. Now the solution of ammonium nitrate is heated gently. While it is being
        heated, the surface of the solution will become oily, and finally
        small droplets will form and sink to the bottom of the beaker.
3. After this process is finished, remove the heat and drain off excess
        ammonium nitrate solution. The droplets that remain at the bottom of
        the beaker are chloride of azode of nitrochloride. Nitrochloride
        explodes violently when brought into contact with an open flame, or
        when exposed to temperatures above 212 degrees F.

There are hundreds and hundreds of formulas for the use of ammonium nitrate,
in different explosive compounds. For further information, a chemistry manual
or handbook of explosives can be useful.

[ ] * Hydrogen + Chlorine * 
    Take the test tube of Hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb.  Keep
it inverted, and bring it near the bottle of Chlorine (Not one that has
reacted with Turpentine) Say "Goodbye test tube", and drop it into the
bottle.  the Hydrogen and Chlorine should react and possibly explode
(Depending on purity and amount of each gas) an interesting thing about this
is they will not react if it is dark and no heat or energy is around, but
when a light is turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react...

[ ] * Generating Hydrogen Gas * 
    To generate Hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react
with that acid, try Vinegar (Acetic Acid) with Zinc, Aluminum, Magnesium,
Etc. You can now collect Hydrogen in something, if you note Hydrogen is
lighter than air.  Light a small amount and it burns with a small *POP*

Another way of creating Hydrogen is by an electrolysis of water, this
involves separating water (H2O) into Hydrogen and Oxygen by an electric
current.  To do this you need a 6-12 Volt battery, two test tubes, a large
bowl, two carbon electrodes (Take them out of any unworking 6-12 Volt
battery), and table salt.  Dissolve the salt in a large bowl of water.
submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them,
with the mouth of the tube aiming down.  Connect the battery to some wire
going down to the electrodes.  This will work for awhile, but Chlorine will
be generated along with oxygen which will undoubtedly corrode  your copper
wires leading to the Carbon electrodes.  (The table salt is broken up into
Chlorine and Sodium ions, the Chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while
Sodium reacts with water to form Sodium Hydroxide...) Therefore, if you can
get your hands on some Sulfuric Acid, use it instead.  It will not affect the
water conduct electricity.


[ ] * Creating Oxygen * 
Get Hydrogen Peroxide and Magnesium Dioxide (It's a black powder found in
batteries) mix the two in a bottle, and possibly some vaseline.  The two will
react and give off oxygen.  If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build
up and shoot it off, if stoppered too tight notice it will explode.

[ ] * Iodine * 
Tincture of Iodine contains mostly Alcohol and a little Iodine.  To separate
them, put the tincture of Iodine in a metal lid from a bottle and heat it
over a candle.  Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the
tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice in top of it.  the Alcohol
should evaporate, and the Iodine should sublime, but should form Iodine
crystals on the cold metal lid above.  If this works, you can use the iodine
along with household ammonia to form Nitrogen Triiodine.

[ ] *How To Make Nitrogen Tri-Iodide*

        Probably the most hazardous explosive compound of all is nitrogen
tri-iodide. Strangely enough, it is very popular with high school chemsits,
who do not have the vaguest idea of what they are doing. The reason for its
popularity may be the ready availability of the ingredients, but it is so
sensitive to friction that a fly landing on it, has been known to detonate it.
The recipe has only been included as a warning and a curiosity. It should not
be used.

[1> Add a small amount of solid iodine crystals to about 20 cc. of
        concentrated ammonium hydroxide. This operation must be performed
        very slowly, until a brownish-red precipitate is formed.
[2> Now it is filtered through filter paper, and then washed first with
        alcohol and secondly with ether.

        Tri-idodide must remain wet, since when it dries it becomes super
sensitive to friction, and a slight touch can set it off.

[*Nitrogen Triiodide*]
      Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive explosive.
 Never store it and be carful when you're around it- Sound, Air movements, and 
other tiny things could set it off.

 MATERIALS-
    2-3G Iodine
    15ML concentrated Ammonia
    8 sheets filter paper
    50ml beaker
    Feather mounted on a two meter pole
    Ear plugs
    Tape
    Spatula
    Stirring Rod

  Add 2-3g Iodine to 15ml Ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for 5
minutes. Do the following within 5 minutes!
  Retain the solid, decant the liquid (Pour off the liquid but keep the brown 
solid...). Scrape the brown residue of Nitrogen Triiodide onto a stack of four
sheets of filter paper. Divide solid into four parts, putting each on a seperate
sheet of dry filter paper. Tape in position, leave to dry undisturbed for at
least 30 minutes (Preferrably longer). To detonate, touch with feather.
(Wear ear plugs when detonating or cover ears- it is very loud!)

[*Nitrogen Triiodide #2]
Five grams iodine
three grams potassium iodide
20 ml. concentrated ammonium hydroxide
filter paper & funnel.
Stir the potassium iodide and iodine together in a beaker with 50 ml. of water.
Add the ammonium hydroxide with stirring until no more precipitate forms. Filter
and spread a thin layer of the wet solid on several filter papers. Break the
filter papers into many small pieces and allow to dry for several hours. On
drying, the paper is extremely sensitive to touch and will explode violently
with the slightest disturbance. Can be handled safely when wet. Do not let any
sizeable quantity of the dry material accumulate. --- I was able to buy
concentrated ammonium hydroxide from a photographic supply.

[ ] * Gun Powder * 
    Materials:
    -3 Cups granulated potassium nitrate
    -2 Cups powdered charcoal
    -1/2 Cup sulfur
    -3 Pints Rubbing Alcohol
    -3 Cups Water
1.  Place the alcohol in a 2 Gallon bucket
2.  Place Potassium Nitrate, Charcoal, and Sulfur in a heat resistant 2
    gallon bucket.  Add 1 cup of water and mix very thoroughly until all
    of the ingredients are dissolved.
3.  Add two more cups of water then place the bucket over an open fire
    and stir until you see small bubbles forming.
4.  Remove the bucket from the fire and pour it's contents into the
    alcohol bucket.
5.  Let the mixture set for about 5 minutes.  Strain the liquid through a
    thick cloth, then squeeze in such a way that the powder left on it is
    formed into a good sized clump.
6.  Place some screening over a dry bucket, and rub the clump of powder
    over it.
7.  Pour the powder from the bucket over some sun-stricken cement to dry
    Remove from sun as soon as dry.  You now have some gun powder to do
    with what you please...

[*Gun Powder II (Easy Version)* 
    85% Potassium Nitrate    65% Potassium Chlorate
    12% Charcoal             22% Charcoal
    32% Sulfur               13% Sulfur

Potassium Chlorate is the same thing as Sodium Chlorate or Salt Peter
Mix dry, add water to make past, let dry, then crush to grain.  Do not use
metal object when crushing.

[ ] * Fertilizer Explosive * 
    Materials:
    -Fertilizer with containing no less than 32% total Nitrogen
    -A 1:1 mixture of Oil and Gasoline
    -16 Ounce bottle
1.  Crush the fertilizer into a flour like substance
2.  Mix 32 parts fertilizer to 1 part oil/gas mixture while stirring
    vigorously
3.  Spoon mixture into 16 Ounce bottle
4.  Insert blasting cap, just below the surface of the fertilizer
    explosive, ignite when ready.

[ ] * Fertilizer Explosive # 2 * 
    Materials:
    -Fertilizer with no less than 32% Nitrogen
1.  Grind the fertilizer into a flour like substance
2.  Mix 4 parts fertilizer to 1 part bronzing powder
3.  Store in air-tight container until ready to use
4.  When ready to use, go to step 4 of Fertilizer Explosive #1

[ ] * Sodium Chlorate/Sugar Explosive * 
    Materials:
    -Sodium Chlorate
    -Granual sugar
    -Steel pipe threaded at one end and one end cap
1.  Mix 3 parts sodium chlorate to 2 parts sugar
2.  Screw on the end cap onto one of the threaded ends
3.  Pour the mixture into the pipe
4.  Insert a blasting cap just below the surface of the mixture

[ ] * Picric Acid * 
    Materials:
    -Asprin tablets
    -95% pure alcohol
    -Sulfuric Acid (from car battery; boil until white fumes appear)
    -Potassium Nitrate (Part II)
1.  Crush 20 asprin in a glass container then add 1 teaspoon water and mix
    into a paste while stirring
2.  Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of Alcohol to the asprin paste while stirring
3.  Tape a paper towel over a glass container and pour the solution over it.
    Pitch the residue left on the paper towel.
4.  Pour the filtered solution into a glass or ceramic dish
5.  Heat a pan of water 160-180 degrees.  Place the dish into the
    Alcohol/Water solution evaporates leaving behind white powder
6.  Pour 1/3 cup of Sulfuric Acid into a jar then add the white powder
7.  Place the jar into a pan of simmering water for about 15 minutes then
    remove the jar from the pan.  The solution should turn yellow-orange in
    color
8.  Add 3 teaspoons of Potassium Nitrate to solution while stirring
    vigorously.  The solution will turn red then back to yellow-orange
9.  Allow the solution to cool to room temperature while stirring
    occasionally
10. Pour the solution into a glass containing 1 1/4 cup of water while
    stirring vigorously
11. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container
12. Wash the yellow particles that collect on the towel with 2 teaspoons of
    water.
13. Place the particles in a glass or ceramic dish and set in simmering water
    for 2 hours

[ ] * How To Make Picric Acid *

Method for the preparation of picric acid:
1. Phenol is melted and then mixed with a concentrated solution of sulfuric
        acid. The mixture is constantly stirred and kept at a steady
        temperature of 95 degrees C., for four to six hours, depending on the
        quantities of phenol used. 
2. After this, the acid-phenol solution is diluted with distilled water, and
        an equal excess amount of nitric acid is added. The mixture of the
        nitric acid will cause an immediate reaction, which will produce heat,
        so the addition of the acid must be performed slowly, but more
        importantly the temperature of the solution must NOT GO ABOVE 110 
        degrees C.
3. Ten or so minutes after the addition of the nitric acid, the picric acid
        will be fully formed, and you can draw off the excess acid. It should
        be filtered and washed in the same manner as above, until the litmus
        paper tests show that there is little or no acid present. When
        washing, use only cold water. After this, the picric acid should be
        allowed to partially dry.

Picric acid is a more powerful explosive than TNT, but it has disadvantages.
It is much more expensive to make, and is best handled in a wet 10% distilled
water form, as picric acid becomes very unstable when completely dry. This
compound should never be put into direct contact with any metal, since
instantly on contact there is a formation of metal picrate, which explodes
spontanteously upon formation.

[ ] * Electrical Blasting Cap * 
    Materials:
    -.75 Grams of Mercury Fulminate
    -Picric Acid
    -Spent casing of at least .22 calibre (.45, .50, .38, etc...)
    -12" fuse with insulated wire
1.  Strip about 1/4" of the insulation from the center of the wire
2.  Drill 2 holes in the casing
3.  Thread the wire so that the non-insulated area is inside the casing
4.  Fill the casing with the Mercury Fulminate
5.  When your done with step 8, connect one end of the wire to the positive
    lead of a battery (the higher the voltage the better)
6.  Connect one end of the second wire to the negative lead and the second
    wire to a SPST or DPST or other 2-way switch (make sure the switch is in
    the off position)
7.  Connect the other end of the first wire to the other end of the switch
8.  Flip the switch whenever your ready to ignite the blasting cap.

[ ] * How to make Mercury Fulminate for Blasting caps * 

3.12      MERCURY FULMINATE

     Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds.  It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it
of infinite value to a terrorist.  Even the action of dropping a crystal of
the fulminate causes it to explode.  A person making this material would
probably use the following procedure:

Method # 1 
1.  Take 5 grams of pure mercury and mix it with 35 milliliters of Nitric Acid.
2.  The misture is slowly and gently heated as soon as the solution bubbles
    and turns green, one knows the silver mercury is dissolved.
3.  After it is dissolved, the solution should be poured, slowly, into a
    small container of Ethyl Alcohol.  This will result in red fumes.
4.  After a half hour or so, the red fumes will turn white, indicating that
    the process is nearing its final stage.
5.  After a few minutes, add distilled water to the solution
6.  The entire solution is now filtered, in order to obtain the small white
    crystals.  These crystals are pure mercury fulminate, but should be
    washed many time, and tested with litmus paper for any remaining acid.

Method # 2 
1.  Mix one part Mercuric Oxide with ten parts Ammonia solution.  When ratios 
    are reached they are always according to weight rather than volume
2.  After waiting eight to ten days, one will see that the Mercuric Oxide has
    reacted with the Ammonia solution to produce the white fulminate crystals
3.  These crystals must be washed several times and tested with litmus paper
    for any remaining acid

[ ] *Cheap Electrical Igniters       
                                      
 Materials:                          
 pack of 100 silicon diodes (available at any electronic store; you know you
 got the right ones if they are very,very small glass objects.)     
 pack of matches           
 1 candle                  
                                      
  Procedure:                          
1. light the candle and allow a large pool of molten wax to form in the top.
2. take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against the
head....bend the wires around the head so that one wraps in an upward direction
and then sticks out to the side...do the same with the other wire, but in a
downward direction. The diode should now be hugging the match head, but its
wires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER!!!! 
3. dip the match head in wax to give it a water-proof coat (work under water)
4. repeat steps 1 - 3 to make as many as you want

How to use:
    When these little dudes are hooked across a 6vDC battery, the diode reaches
  what is called break-down voltage. When most electrical components reach this
  voltage, they usually produce great ammounts of heat and light, while quickly
  melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ingite a match head. These
  are recomended for use under water, where most other ingniters refuse to
  work. Enjoy!


[ ] * Land Mine * 
    Materials:
    -1 M-80 or other explosive
    -3 Wires
    -1 9 Volt battery
    -1 Solar igniter
    -1 Pressure plate switch
1.  Connect the wire from battery to switch to solar igniter to battery
2.  Replace fuse on M-80 with solar ignitor
3.  Hide device under a light coat of dirt
4.  Place switch in the path when switch is pressured the bomb will go off

[ ] * Detonators *

        The most common time-delay device is an ordinary safety fuse. These
fuses usually consist of a black-powder core surrounded with a fabric and
then a layer of waterproof material. Although there are many different types, 
it can generally be said that safety fuses burn between 30 and 45 seconds
per foot; however, check these figures when you make your purchase. Fuses
can be bought from any mail-order pryotechnics company. Two with whom I have
dealt are:

        Ecco Products
        Box 189
        Northvale, New Jersey 07647

        Westech Corporation
        P.O. Box 8193
        Salt Lake City, Utah 84108

        Double-coated waterproof fuse usually sells for 20 to 25 dollars for
a thousand to fifteen hundred feet. I would advise purchasing this equipment,
since homemade fuses are not to be trusted.
        Bombs can be detonated in many ways. The detonation and use of
certain devices are based mainly on the cleverness and imagination of the
saboteur. I will discuss several basic forms of detonators, both nonelectric
and electric. However, there is an infinite number of variations, which may be
better suited to individual situations.
        The first type is referred to either as a tension-release, or a
wiretrap device. It operates on the principle of releasing the tension 
caused by a wound spring, on the firing pin, and allowing it to strike and
set off a nonelectrical blasting cap. The nonelectrical blasting cap will in
turn generate the necessary heat to ignite the TNT or dynamite. This can be
implemented in many ways. A common method in which the wire-trip device can 
be employed is stretching a trip wire six inches above the ground. Another 
equally popular method of employing the tension-release device is attaching
the taut wire to the back of a door, so that, when the door is opened, the
tension is released, and the explosive ignites.
        A device very similar to the last one is the pull-trigger electric
detonator. It functions in the same manner, in that a safety pin is removed
from the striker or firing pin, causing it to move forward and connect with a
metal plate. This connection with the metal plate completes the electrical
circuit. The batteries have been connected by wires to an electrical 
blasting cap, a metal plate, and finally to the firing pin. Although 
professional supplies for this equipment are available at reasonable prices,
the device can be constructed from household items. The construction of this
device is as follows: two flashlight batteries are connected to each other,
and then one wire is run from one end of the batteries to the electrical
blasting cap, the other wire from the opposite end of the batteries to the
metal plate. A third wire is run from the blasting cap to the firing pin.
This now completes the fully cocked device.
        In the same manner as the explosive is detonated, so is the common
military grenade. The principle of a tension release is the same. After the
pin is pulled out of the military grenade, the spring is free to react,
causing the primer to ignite the lead-spitter fuse, and it in turn will ignite
the lead oxide and pentolite. The pentolite will release enough heat to
ignite the TNT and cause fragmentation of the metal casing.
        The next type of detonating device I am going to discuss is called the
pressure-trigger device. It is based on the application of pressure rather
than its release, as in the previous devices. This mechanism is primarily
used when an electrical circuit is employed. The plunger is pushed down; it
forces one thin metal plate against another thicker metal plate. The batteries
are connected, via the blasting cap, to each of these metal plates. Therefore,
when they touch, the electrical circuit is complete, and the explosive will
ignite.
        This type of device has several important advantages. First of all,
it can be constructed away from the area it will be used in. This will cut 
installation time down to seconds.

[ ] * Pressure Detonators *

        The next type of detonating device I will discuss is called a
releas-of-pressure mechanism. This device employs exactly the same principles 
as the pressure-trigger device, except in reverse. The movement of the 
pressure plate, rather than down, is now up. This can be used effectively when
a weight is placed on the pressure plate. Then when it is removed, the
explosives will be ignited. To construct, use a heavy-duty spring beneath the
first metal plate. Connect a wire from the blasting cap to the first metal
plate. The second wire is then stretched from the bottom of battery "A", to 
the second metal plate. The third wire is run from the electrical blasting cap
to the top of battery "B". When this is accomplished, the booby trap is fully
cocked. When the weight on the pressure plate is remove, the spring will will
force the second metal plate against the first, thus completing the electrical
circuit and exploding the device.
        In a tension-release booby trap, when the tension, resulting from a 
wire pulling on a pliable metal strip, is released, the metal strip will snap
back into another metal strip. Since the wires from the batteries and blasting
cap are connected to either metal strip, when they touch, the circuit will be 
complete and it will detonate the explosive charge. This type of detonator is
especially effective when attached to drawers, doors, or any movable object.

[ ] * Mortars * 
    Materials:
    -3" Long and 4" Diameter iron pipe, threaded at one end
    -End cap for pipe
    -Gun powder
    -9 Volt lantern battery and wires
    -1 Pound of small stones or other small metal scrap (hex nuts)
    -2, 20" X 20" rags
    -Paper bag
    -Light bulb
1.  Screw the end cap on the pipe
2.  Using a file, make a hole in the top of the light bulb
3.  Fill the light bulb and sack with gun powder
4.  Solder two very long wires to the base of the light bulb
5.  Put the bulb in the sack with the wires hanging out.  Fill the rest of
    the sack with gun powder
6.  Put the sack into the back of the pipe.  Make sure the wires lead out of
    the pipe
7.  Wad up one of the rags and pack it into the pipe.  Make sure the wires
    led out of the pipe.
8.  Insert scrap, stones, shrapnel on top of the first rag
9.  Wad up the second rag and pack it in at the top
10. Use some form of electrical tape
11. Use battery to ignite
   
[ ] * Pressure Plate Switch * 
    Materials:
    -9 Volt Lantern battery
    -Piece of wood size of the pressure plate you want
    -Four small pieces of wood approximately 1/4" thickness
    -A piece of flexible conductive material (sheet metal,cut coke can,etc.)
1.  Nail the four extra pieces of wood to the corners of the largest piece of
    wood.
2.  Connect one wire to the positive lead of the battery
3.  Nail the stripped end of the positive wire to the center of the large
    piece of wood.
4.  Solder a second wire to the piece of metal
5.  Dig a hole where you want the pressure plate.  Place the piece of wood
    into the bottom of the hole.  Set the metal on top of the four supports.
    Cover with a loose, thin layer of dirt, leaves, etc.
6.  Attatch a third wire to the negative battery lead

[ ] * Briefcase Bomb * 
    Materials:
    -Briefcase
    -Moustrap
    -9 Volt battery
    -Plastique
    -Electrical blasting cap
1.  Remove all parts of the mousetrap except for the spring loaded lever
2.  Attatch a wire to the positive lead of the battery and wrap it around the
    lever
3.  Attatch a second wire to the negative lead to the battery to one end of
    the wire of the blasting cap
4.  Attatch a second wire to the other end of the blasting cap wire
5.  Put in a considerable amount of plastique into the briefcase
6.  Insert blasting caps
7.  Tape down the battery and mousetrap to the bottom of the case
8.  Push back lever and tape the final loose wire (leads to blasting cap) to
    the mousetrap so that if the lever would be released.  It would complete
    the circuit
9.  Keeping the lever held back in it's spring-loaded position, close the
    briefcase top and lock it
10. When it's opened, the lever will spring shut, completing the circuit to
    the blasting cap, igniting the plastique and blowing them to hell...

[ ] * Booby Traps *

[Road Trap]

This incorporates a wire-trip action to complete the electrical circuit. It
is extremely simple to make, since all the equipment can be gathered around
the house. The great advantage to this particular device is that the 
explosives are detonated when the vehicle is directly over it, so insuring
maximum destruction. To construct a road trap, begin by digging three holes
across a roadway. Into two of the holes place the explosive charges, and into
the third place a regular car battery. Connect the first wire from the
negative terminal of the battery via each of the blasting caps, in each
charge, to a metal pin on one side of an ordinary clothespin. The
clothespin must be kept open by a small wooden wedge, which is attached to a
thin black wire stretched across the roadway. When the semi-invisible wire is
pulled, the wodden wedge will fall out of the clothespin, thus closing the
clothespin. When the clothespin is closed, the two metal pins will connect
the electrical circuit, thus exploding the charges.

[Walk Trap]
This incorporates the same type of wire-trap action as described in the road
trap. The walk trap is not electrically operated, it relies on a percussion
detonator. When the wire is pulled, it pulls the safety pin out of the heavy
firing pin. The heat created from the detonator's explosion will be
sufficient to set off the TNT. This type of booby trap is especially effective
in dense undergrowth where the trip wire cannot be readily seen (see figure).

                                                     ######
                                                    ######## 
                                                    #[TREE]#
                                                    ########
                                                     ######
                                                       ||
                                                       ||
                                                      /||
                           !:!.;!.!.;!:;.!           / ||
                          !:;[Tall Grass];!   Wire->/  ||
                          !;::!;;.;!.;;!.;!        /   ||
                          !.;..!;..;.:!.;!!       /    ||
    ______________________!.!!;.!:..!..:!.!______/_____||_________________
                          -----[Board]-----     / 
                          |     ______    |    /
                          |----|heavy |---|---/ <-Safety Pin
                          |    |firing|   |
                          |     \pin /    |
                          |      \  /     |
                          |       \/      |
                          |               |
                          |               |
                          |------####-----| <---[### = Detonator]
                          |///////////////|
                          |/////[TNT]/////|
                          |///////////////|
                          |_______________|

[Bangalore Torpedo]
This is nothing more than a few sections of pipe filled with sticks of
dynamite, sealed at the ends, and joined in the middle by couplings, thus
permitting the torpedo to be of varying lengths. The cap at one end must have
a small hole drilled in it, so that a fuse and blasting cap can be inserted.
It can be used very effectively to destroy walls, barricades, and
steel or iron doors. These are also great weapons against cars, trucks, and
even trains. If piping of this sort is not available, you can make a
substitute torpedo by taking a stick of dynamite and wrapping it tightly with
electric tape and thin copper wire. To be effectvie, it should have many
layers of each.

[Homemade Hand Grenade]
This is constructed from an empty, clean, condensed-milk can, attached to a
wodden handle. It is then filled halfway with a layer of dynamite. In the
dynamite is placed a nonelectric blasting cap, with a five to six second
fuse. The dynamite is then covered with small pieces of iron, until the can is
full. Seal the top of the open end closed, leaving a small hole for the fuse.

                                  /
                             ====|====
                             =.:.|.:.=
                             =:.:|.:.= <--[:.: = Iron Scraps]
                             =.:.|:.:=
                             =---|---=
                             =///+///=
                             =///+///= <--[+ = Non-electric Blasting Cap]
                             =///+///=
                             =///////=
                             =///////= <--[/// = Dynamite]
                             =========
                                |||
                                ||| <-- Wooden Handle
                                |||
                                |||

[Anti-Personnel Grenade]
This is constructed by taking a piece of pipe and closing it at one end,
either by soldering or by screwing a cap on it. The pipe is packed tightly
with dynamite, and sealed at the other end, leaving a small hole for the
detonator, which is made in the following manner. A piece of one-eighth-inch
tubing is fastened to the end of a piece of fuse, which in turn is attached
to a detonating cap. On the other end of the fuse, a bit of cotton, saturated
with chlorate of potassium and common sugar, is placed, followed by another
piece of cotton and a little vial of sulferic acid. (This vial must be
hermetically sealed, to prevent leakage). Finally, a piece of wood or iron,
which can be easily moved, is packed in the remaining empty space. The piece 
of wood is placed there, so that when the pipe is moved the piece of iron or
wood will fall against the vial of sulfuric acid and break it. Once the
sulfuric acid contacts the potassium chlorate, the chemical reaction will
cause a very hot flame, which will ignite the fuse and cause the explosion. If
this type of device is placed in a roadway, or directly in the path of the
enemy army, there is a good change it will be set off - either by a kick or
by curiosity.

[Book Trap]
To construct this, you will need a large book, perhaps a thousand pages. The 
book should be hollowed out, leaving the edges intact. In this hollow place,
put a dry cell battery and your explosive, and connect the wires. Fix two
metal contact points to the edges of the book, and separate them with a
wooden wedge, which is attached to the rear wall of the bookcase. This must
be accomplished in such a manner that, when the book is removed from the
shelf, the metal contact points will touch and complete the electrical 
circuit, thus causing the detonation of the explosive charge.

[ ] BOOK BOMBS

     Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where
perpetrators of violence run wild.  Bags and briefcases are often searched
by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend
to set off a bomb.  One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is
called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of
a book.  Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of
the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb.  Dictionaries, law
books, large textbooks, and other such books work well.  When an individual
makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for
the place where the book bomb will be placed.  The actual construction of a
book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping
saw.  First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together.  By pouring
an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling
the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will
hold all of the book's pages together tightly.  After the glue-water solution
has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well,
the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each
page must be thoroughly soaked.  It is extremely important that the covers of
the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying.
Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice
works best.  When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must
be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood.
Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a
rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell
of the book's pages.  The pages, when drilled out, should look like this:

               ________________________
               | ____________________ |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |                  | |
               | |__________________| |
               |______________________|

                 (book covers omitted)


     This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book.
After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled
variety, the bomber places it inside the book.  The bomb itself, and whatever
timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling
or shifting about.  Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has
been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its
destination.

[Loose Floorboard Trap]
This one utilizes the same principles as the Book Trap, in that is relies on
two metal contact points touching to complete the electrical circuit. Beneath
the loose floorboard are two strips of pliable metal of bamboo, each with a 
metal contact point, which will touch when pressure is brought down on the
loose floorboard.

[Gate Trap]
This is an extremely simple, effective, and relatively safe booby trap. To
cock the booby trap, pull the pin on a regular tension release grenade, and
place beneath a swining gate, or anywhere that will supply the pressure
necessary. When the gate is moved (either opened or closed), the pressure
will be released and the grenade detonated.

[Chimney Trap]
Take three or four sticks of dynamite and tape them together. Attach a 
nonelectrical blasting cap, with a three or four foot fuse. Now tape the
dynamite about five feet up on the inside of the chimney, leaving the fuse 
hanging loose downward. The end of the fuse should be about a foot or so up
the chimney so that it is out of sight. When a fire is lit, the heat 
generated will ignite the fuse, and it will explode the charge, further up the
chimney. This works extremely well, since most of the tamping is supplied by
the very structure of the chimney.

[Car Trap]
It has many advantages, the most important being that you do not have to carry
your own power supply, but rather use the ignition system of the car itself. 
Wires are run from the electrical blasting cap to points along the electrical
ignititon system, and attached with alligator clips. When the key it turned,
it will complete the ignition system, and thus explode the bomb. A good place
to hide explosives is in the hollow cavity behind the dashboard, since then
the full force of the explosion will be directed at the individuals in the
front seat.

[Pipe Trap]
There are basically two methods of booby-trapping a pipe. The first is very
similar to the chimney trap, except the intent is to blow off the smoker's
head. A small amount of tetryl or lead azide is placed in the mouthpiece of
the pipe, and a fuse is attached, which leads through the rest of the pipe to
a point about one-quarter-inch beneath the bowl. When the smoker lights the
pipe, the fuse will be lit, and burn down untouched, until it detonates the
explosives in the mouthpiece, and blows the smoker's head off.
        The second method is a little more complex but just as effective. A
very sensitive explosive is placed in the mouthpiece, as before, except an
activated firing pin is placed in the stem of the pipe. The smoker will
attempt to light the pipe and find he cannot suck through it. Believing the
stem to be blocked with tar or nicotine, he will unscrew the threaded joint. 
The act of unscrewing will release the firing pin, and detonate the
explosives.

[Cacodyal]
Since it is not feasible to make napalm in your kitchen, you will have to be
satisfied with cacodyal. This made by chemically extracting all the oxygen
from alcohol, and then replacing it, under laboratory controls, with metal
arsenic. The formula for alcohol is C4 H5 O, whereas for cacodyal it is
C4 H5 AR. Now, this new substance, cacodyal, possesses spontaneous
inflammability, the moment it is exposed to the air. Therefore it can be put
into a bottle and used like a Molotov Cocktail. If it is thrown, it will
explode on impact, but this is not its real advantage. When it explodes, a
dense white smoke is given off. This is white arsenic, a deadly poin. One
inhalation will probably cause death in a matter seconds.

[Molotov Cocktail]
        This is an incendiary bomb, which bursts into flame on breaking. A
quart bottle is filled with 2/3 gasoline and 1/3 oil. A fuse is made of an
old gasoline-soaked rag, and then stuffed into the mouth of the bottle. The
bottle is corked, and the fuse is lit. It is thrown and, when it breaks, it
will burst into flame. The enemy will not be able to extinguish the fire with
water. These were used with varying degree of success in the struggle
in Hungary. According to some reports they can disable a tank.

[MOLOTOV COCKTAILS]

     First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now
exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make,
and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material,
such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid,
turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass
bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable
liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid
in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth
around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to
light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth
does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle
will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame.
Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more
volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture
such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes,
and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this
must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown

[Whistle Trap & Other Handy Devices]

        A booby trap that has an effect similar to the one created by the
pipe trap, is the whistle booby trap. It is constructed by separating the
metal or plastic sides into their natural halves. This can be accomplished by
steaming. Now, fill each half one-fourth full of an extremely friction-
sensitive explosive. Before gluing the two halves together, include a small
ball made of a rough sandpaper-like substance (glue some sand together). When
the whistle is blown, the ball will bounce around inside the shell, creating
enough friction heat to set off the explosive charge.
        An interesting booby trap can be constructed by using a bottle, full 
of a highly sensitive liquid explosive, which will detonate on the extraction 
of the cork. The cork is designed with a friction element that pulls through
a sensitive explosive. When this booby trap explodes, it does extensive
damage, due to the fragmentation of the glass.
        An extremely simple device for setting a time-delay fire is a book of
matches, with a lighted cigarette stuck in it. This is then left upon
combustible material. The cigarette, as it burns down, will light the matches,
and they in turn will generate the heat necessary to ignite the other larger
combustible material.
        Another incendiary time-delay device is constructed out of a candle,
friction matches, and several rags soaked either in gasoline or kerosene. The
candle is placed upright in the center of the bundle of matches. As the candle
burns down, it will ignite the matches, and they will ignite the rags. One can
usually expect about a fifteen-minute delay with this device.

[ ] * Trap Light Bulbs * 
     An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the
light.  This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead
light socket.  A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make.  It also comes
with its own initiator and electric ignition system.  On some lightbulbs, the
lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a
lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove.  This must
be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum.  When the glue
gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base.  On other
bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or
oxy-acetylene torch.  When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked
in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb.  In either case,
once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the
bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder.  If the
glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the base
with epoxy.  If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient
to hold the explosive in the in the bulb.  Then, after making sure that the
socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be
done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket.  Such a device has been
used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can search the
room for a bomb without first turning on the light.

    Materials:
    -1 Light Bulb
    -1 Gallon of gasoline
    -1 Tube of Epoxy glue
    -Liquid Soap
1.  Place hole in the light bulb (See Below)

                   *
                  ---
                 [   ]
                 [   ]
                 [   ]
                *[   ]*
                [     ]
               [       ]
               [       ]
                [-----]

*-Mark where hole may be placed

2.  Carefully pour some gasoline through the hole filling half the bulb
3.  Carefully pour some liquid soap in to complete filling the bulb
4.  Cover the hole with Epoxy glue
5.  Make sure the switch is off and screw light bulb in socket, when the
    switch is turned on.  The bulb will explode sending sharp fragments of
    glass all over...

[ ] * Pipe Bomb (Easy Version) * 
    Materials:
    -1 Threaded steel pipe with caps on the ends
    -1 Baby food or other small jar
    -Some small rocks
    -Some Baking Soda
1.  Fill glass jar with Vinegar
2.  Fit glass jar into steel pipe
3.  Cap one end of pipe
4.  Drop small rocks into pipe
5.  Fill pipe with Baking Soda
6.  Screw the other cap on tightly and then weld it shut.  This is usually
    used as an impact explosive, toss it on a hard surface, the contact will
    break the jar, five to ten minutes later, it will explode

[*Pipe Bomb*]
Buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches long, threaded on both ends.
Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard items in hardware stores. Drill a
1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy with a good drill bit.
Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a metal cap tightly on one end. Fill the
(pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack the powder.
Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want the powder
loose. For maximum explosive effect, you need dry, fine powder sitting loose in
a very rigid container. Wipe off any powder that has gotten onto the top or
threads of the pipe. Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten only. Place a
small piece of tape over the hole and go to your test site. Remove the tape and
insert a two inch piece of black match fuse or a firecracker fuse into the hole.
Place the bomb behind a large rock or tree. Using thread or string, lightly tie
a 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to the end of the fuse. Avoid letting the wick
touch any objects. This might cause it to go out. Light the wick and head for
cover in a direction that keeps the rock or tree between you and the bomb at all
times.  Get behind cover at least 50 yards away. You may not expect such a large
explosion from such a small object.  The pipe will be blown to pieces which will
fly through (the air like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill
you. This is not a big firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade. The size of
the bomb can be increased by using a larger pipe end caps. To make a big noise
without blowing up your pipe, cap one end only.  Drill a 1/16 hole at the top
of the threads at the capped end. Put in about 3 to 4 rounded teaspoonsful of
powder. Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the powder. Toilet paper or
kleenex is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a safety pin and stick it
into the hole. Work it around to loosen up the powder so a fuse can be inserted.
When this goes off, the recoil will be tremendous. You will loose your pipe
unless you brace it securely against (something. The pipe can be reloaded and
used again. A fun trick is to mount the pipe pointing upward. Drop a tin can
over the open end and light the fuse.  The can will be blown high into the air.
Campbell's soup cans are great for this.

[ ] * Nitro Explosive * 
    Materials:
    -65% Nitric Acid
    -20% Glycerine
    -15% Sulfuric Acid
1.  Mix these into solution form.  This should explode by heat, impact or
    fuse.

[ ] * Nitro Compound II * 
Petroleum jelly and Potassium Chlorate in a 1:1 ratio by weight make a totally
safe when wet compound, but is highly explosive and shock sensitive when dry.

[ ] * Formulas For Ammonium Nitrate Compounds *

[1> Ammonium nitrate            60      [2> Ammonium nitrate            34
    Potassium nitrate           29.5        Potassium nitrate           34
    Sulfur flour                 2.5        TNT                         17
    Charcoal powder              4          Ammonium chloride           15
    Woodmeal                     4
                                        [4> Ammonium nitrate            70
[3> Ammonium nitrate            59          Ammonium sulfate             9
    Woodmeal                    10          Nitroglycerin                6
    Nitroglycerin               10          Barium sulfate               7
    Sodium chloride             20          Dextrin                      8
    Magnesium carbonate          1
                                        [6> Ammonium nitrate            75
[5> Ammonium nitrate            88          Aluminum powder             25
    Charcoal powder             12
                                        [8> Ammonium nitrate            64
[7> Ammonium nitrate            94          TNT                         15
    Potassium nitrate            2          Sodium chloride             21
    Charcoal powder              4 
                                        [10> Ammonium nitrate           35
[9> Ammonium nitrate            60           Potassium nitrate          33
    Woodmeal                    10           TNT                        15
    Nitroglycerin               10           Ammonium chloride          20
    Sodium chloride             20

        The formulas listed above are for high explosives. They are not for
cherry bombs or Roman candles. The ingredients that make up these formulas
have several functions: The first is the explosive agent itself, the second is
the stabilizing agent, and third is a texturizer (paraffin). Below are listed
the most important and common ingredients that are used to form an explosive
compound, and a description of their purpose and function.

[Ammonium Nitrate]: An extremely unstable, white explosive, usually in
        crystalline form.
[Aluminum]: A silver metallic powder, when in pyro grade, it is a major
        ingredient in many ammonal explosive compounds.
[Ammonium Oxalate]: A very valuable stabilizing agent, especially for nitro.
[Barium Nitrate]: Nitrated barium, in white crystalline powdered form.
[Charcoal Powder]: A fine black powder, which is extremely absorbent, and used
        extensively in pyrotechnics.
[Guncotton]: Nitrated cellulose (sawdust) is fairly stable, but usually used
        with other ingredients rather than alone. It is about 13-14% nitrogen.
[Naphthalene]: This is a sensitizing agent that is normally in a white
        crystalline form.
[Paraffin]: This is a primary ingredient in plastique, and acts as a
        texturizer.
[Potassium Nitrate]: An explosive compound in itself, which is stable. It is
        usually in a white crystalline form.
[Potassium Perchloride]: A white powder used as an igniting agent in high
        explosives. It is an extremely common ingredient in low explosives.
[Resin]: A gummy substance, which is flammable, and used in high explosives as
        an igniting agent.
[Sodium Carbonate]: This white crystalline powder acts to neutralize acid,
        which may make the explosive more unstable than it normally is.
[Sodium Chloride]: This is nothing more than ordinary table salt, and is used
        as a cooling agent in many high explosives.
[Sodium Nitrate]: A stable explosive compound which has the advantage of
        being water-absorbent.
[Sodium Sulfate]: A stabilizing powder, which is water-resistant.
[Starch]: This can be either potato or corn starch, and acts as an absorbent
        in many explosive compounds.
[Sulfur]: A yellow crystalline powder, which should be used in flour form
        only.
[Vaseline]: A clear petroleum jelly used in a similar manner as paraffin, as
        a plasticizer, for many forms of exploding gelatins and plastic 
        explosives.

[ ] * Chlorox/Draino Bomb * 
    Materials:
    -2 Jars with metal lids (Baby food)
    -1 Bottle chlorox bleach
    -1 Bottle of liquid draino
    -1 Roll of electrical tape
Fill one of these jars with chlorox and the other with liquid draino.  Screw
the lids on both jars and seal them tightly with electrical tape.  Tape both
jars together and to ignite this bomb just throw upon a hard surface.  The
bottles will break and an explosion will occur.  The larger the bottles
(Jars) the larger the effect of the bomb.

[ ] * Soda Bomb/Poison Gas (2X Chlorine Gas Bomb) * 
    Materials:
    -1 Box granulated pool chlorine
    -1 Bag of sugar
    -1 Bucket of water
    -1 Two-liter soda bottle or other glass bottle
    -1 Small glass jar with metal lid
Make a mixture of the following:  50% Chlorine, 50% Sugar
Put it in the bottle.  Then fill the glass jar with water and put it in the
soda bottle.  Throw this bomb at a hard surface, it'll create a explosion
and very harmful fumes.


[ ] * Incendiary Bomb * 
First get a 16-Ounce returnable bottle, a tube of caulking, and a considerable
amount of gun powder.  Pour the calking into an old pot and warm it over a nice
hot stove until it is plasma-like and gooey.  Now, take an old strip of cloth
about 10" long X 3/4" wide.  Dip it in the caulking so that it is completely
covered with the stuff.  Place the strip in the bottle so as a little bit sticks
out the top.  Pout in roughly 3/4 cup of gun powder into the bottom.  Fill the
rest of the bottle up with the caulking, let dry, light the cloth.  When the gun
powder explodes, it will spew out chards of glass and flaming strands of
caulking (similar to napalm)


[ ] * Coin Changer Fraud * 
Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports, laudromats 
or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5 dollar 
bill?
1.  Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length wise,
    not the type where you put the bill in a tray then slide the tray in!!!
2.  After finding the right machine get a $1 or $5 bill.  Start crumpling it  
    up into a ball.  Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very
    wrinkly surface.
3.  Now the hard part.  You must tear a notch in the bill on the left side
    about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (see figure)
4.  If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out to the
    machine.  Put the bill in the machine and wait.  What should happen is:
    When you put your bill in, the machine thinks everything is fine.  Where
    it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the machine will
    reject the bill and (if you have done it right) give you the change at
    the same time!!! So, you end up and get the bill back plus the change!!
    It might take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can
    become rich!!!

                   -----------------------------------
                   !                                 !
                   !  (1)                       (1)  !
                   !             ---------           !
                   !             !  ' '  !           !
                   !             !  ---  !           !
                   !  (1)   []   ---------      (1)  !
                   !        !! -Washington-          !
                   ------[     ]----------------------

                            ^^-----Make notch here.  About 1/2 Down from (1)
                                                     or try 3.5 cm.
[ ] * Tennis Ball Bomb * 
As we know, tennis is a popular sport around the world.  In tennis you use
these hollow green balls known as tennis balls.  What people do not know is that these 
wonderful little balls can be used for other things.  They can be used as a handy little 
explosive or noise maker.
You will need the following.
1.  A tennis ball (new if possible)
2.  A knife
3.  A box of matches (the type that will strike on anything
4.  Epoxy Glue and Strong tape
First you take a knife and cut a small round hole on the tennis ball.  Next
you will cut off the match heads of each match and drop them into the hole until the 
tennis ball is full of them.  Make sure you do not drop the tennis
ball, because it will not be too fun to stay in the hospital.  Apply epoxy
glue to the hole, then tape it up very well, so that it is air tight.  Make
a few of these and one day when some geek is walking down the street or when
you want to get a big bang or attention, throw the ball.  It is not to fun to 
be where the ball lands.  To make the explosion more powerful, you can use
gun powder mix.  Have fun!!!

[ ] * Pop Machine Fraud *

   Here is a way to rip off the coke machines you see out side of stores and
other places! ok first on all vending machines there are always those rouund
almost unpickable locks when no one is looking take a peice of air hardening
clayy (make sure it is only air hardening!) and press it into the lock real
good! then remove the clay carefully and put it somewhere to dry! make sure the
clay is TOTALY dry then go back in a day or so and you will have a key to fit
that lock put the key in and push and turn and presto the machine will open 
allowing you to take all the money! a good machine will get you between 2100 and
300 dollars depending when it was last checked by the company. and best of all
if someone sees you just put the key on the ground and step on it and its
powder! and then you cant be busted because the evidence is blown away! 
so that's it.

[ ] * Car Destruction * 
Take an empty tyenol bottle and fill it with liquid draino.  Make sure the lid is sealed 
good, so it doesn't leak out any liquid draino.  Then slip the
bottle into the persons gas tank.  What happens is the draino eats through
the bottle and hits the gas, a chemical reaction take place then Kaboom!!!

[ ] * making M-80 and M-100s *

FLASH POWDER

Flash powder is a chemical mixture that burns so fast that it appears to burn
instantly, producing a bright flash of light.

Flash powder will produce an extremely loud explosion in amounts larger than
4 ounces even when it is not contained Very small amounts of flash powder will
produce a very loud explosion when contained, even in a container made of a few
layers of paper.

Flash powder is usually made from a very fine powdered metal that will burn and
an oxidizer.  Powdered aluminum is used the most because it is cheaper.
Powdered magnesium and zinc will also work.  The oxidizer can be Barium Nitrate,
Ammonium Perchlorate, Barium Peroxide, Strontium Nitrate, Potassium Chlorate,
Potassium Perchlorate, Sodium Chlorate, Potassium Permanganate, others, and any
combination of these.  All the Chlorate are friction and impact sensitive, and
also the Permanganate.  Potassium Perchlorate is the least sensitive of the
Chlorates.

All the chemicals should be crushed into a very fine powder, about 400 Mesh
or smaller.  400 Mesh is about like kitchen type flour.

Black German Aluminum is a brand name for aluminum powder. It has a partical
size of 600 Mesh for 98% of the aluminum material. The other 2% of the material
is larger than 600 Mesh.  There are other aluminum powders made by other
companies that are equal to or better than Black German Aluminum.

Aluminum Pyro Powder is also a brand name.  The partical size is (98%-400)
or 98% of the material is smaller than 400 Mesh. The other 2% is larger than
400 Mesh.


FLASH POWDER FORMULAS

1. This formula is one of the best. It produces a very, very, extremely loud
explosion.  Easy to ignite with a fuse.  It is not moisture absorbent.
Not very sensitive to impact or friction. Sodium Chlorate or Potassium Chlorate
can be used instead of Potassium Perchlorate but it then becomes very sensitive
to friction and impact.  4 ounces of this mixture will produce an explosion
equal to one stick of dynamite!

Potassium Perchlorate           2 oz.
Aluminum Powder 600 Mesh        1 oz.

2. This formula produces and extremely loud explosion, almost as good as
formula #1. This is what most firecrackers, M-80's and other fireworks are
made with.

Potassium Perchlorate           2 oz.
Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh        1 oz.

3. This formula is equal to formula #2 It is not sensitive to friction or impact

Barium Peroxide                 9 oz.
50%/50% Magnesium aluminum
powder 200 Mesh                 1 oz.

4. This formula works as good as formula #2 but it produces a very bright flash.
This formula is what use to be used for the photo flash for the old box type
cameras about 100 years ago

Barium Nitrate                  3 oz.
Potassium Perchlorate           3 oz.
Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh        4 oz.

5. This formula works very good. It is not very impact or friction Sensitive. It
produces a very, very loud explosion.  Potassium Perchlorate contains 46.1914%
oxygen. Half as powerful as #2.

Potassium Perchlorate           2 oz.
Sulfur                          1 oz.
Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh        1 oz.

6. This formula works as good as #5 but it has a disadvantage of being moisture
absorbent and it is very impact and friction sensitive. Sodium Chlorate contains
45.0937% oxygen.  Produces a very, very loud explosion. Equal to #5.

Sodium Chlorate                 2 oz.
Sulfur                          1 oz.
Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh        1 oz.

7. This formula is very dangerous because it is very sensitive to friction and
impact and could explode during the construction of any explosive device.
Potassium Chlorate contains 39.1664% oxygen. This formula produces and explosion
almost equal to #5 or #6. Used in the manufacture of toy cap pistol caps.

Potassium Chlorate              2 oz.
Sulfur                          1 oz.
Aluminum Powder                 1 oz.

8. This formula is very, very very sensitive to impact, friction and static
electricity, even more sensitive than #7. Extremely dangerous! Will ignite
even when wet.

Potassium Chlorate              6.7 oz.
Red Phosphorus                  2.7 oz.
Sulfur                          0.3 oz.
Calcium Carbonate               0.3 oz.

9. This formula has slightly less explosive power than #7. It is slightly
friction and impact sensitive.  Potassium Permanganate contains 40.4961% oxygen.
This formula will ignite itself if it gets wet. Very loud explosion.

Potassium Permanganate          2 oz.
Sulfur                          1 oz.
Aluminum Powder                 1 oz.

10. This formula produces a very small explosion when ignited in a paper tube.
A much louder explosion is produced when it is ignited in a very strong
container. It is impact and friction sensitive.

Potassium Chlorate              7.5 oz.
Charcoal dust                   1.5 oz.
Sulfur                          1.0 oz.

11. No information is available about this formula.

Potassium Chlorate              6 oz.
Antimony Sulfide                3 oz.
Sulfur                          1 oz.

12. This formula is a little louder than formula #10. Impact and friction
sensitive. Produces a small explosion in a paper container.

Sodium Chlorate                 7.5 oz.
Charcoal dust                   1.5 oz.
Sulfur                          1.0 oz.

13. No information is available about this formula.

Potassium Chlorate              7.5 oz.
Gallic acid                     2.2 oz.
Red gum                         0.3 oz.


!CAUTION!

The mixture of any chlorate with phosphorus or sulfur is extremely sensitive to
friction and percussion and explodes with great violence.

Chlorate explosives must not be stored together with ammonium nitrate
explosives, since ammonium chlorate which is formed when these two substances
are brought in contact, explodes.

When mixing chlorate explosives, crush all of the chemicals separately. Sift
the oxidizer through a piece of screen wire to break up the material into small
pieces. Then sift the other chemicals also if they need it.

Mix all of the flash powder chemicals together and mix well by sifting them 
through a piece of screen wire or by shaking them in a ZIP LOCK bag. This
mixture is very sensitive to friction, impact, heat, spark, static electricity
4 ounces of flash powder has the same explosive power as one stick of dynamite.
One gross of M-80 firecrackers is equal to 3 sticks of dynamite.

8 ounces of flash powder will make 100 M-80 type firecrackers if each M-80
contains 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder.

M-80's with 1/4 teaspoon of flash powder produces an explosion that sounds
almost exactly the same as M-80's with 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder, but it
has less destructive power.

24 ounces of flash powder will make 100 M-100 type firecrackers. (And these are
awsome!)

Quick Conversions:

3 teaspons = 1 tablespoon
4 tablespoons = 1/4 cup
1/4 cup = 2 oz.


M-80 & M-100 CONSTRUCTION
-------------------------

1. PLUG ONE END OF THE PAPER TUBE.
Run a small amount of Elmer's glue around the side of an end plug or the inside
edge of the paper tube.  Insert the end plug, convex side first, into the paper
tube. Push it in until the back edge of the plug is flush with the edge of the
paper tube.

2. FUSE THE PAPER TUBE.
Using a 1/8 inch drill bit, an ice pick or a sharp nail, punch a hole through
one side of the paper tube in the middle. NEVER puncture a case that contains
flash powder. The paper tube should always be fused before the flash powder is
added. Cut the fuse to 1 1/2 inches in length and insert it into the hole at
least halfway across the inside diameter of the paper tube. Run a small amount
of Elmer's glue around the fuse and let it dry.

3. MIXING THE FLASH POWDER
Extreme caution should be used when mixing flash powder. Flash powder is
extremely dangerous and explodes with great force. Avoid all sources of
friction, impact, flame, sparks and static electricity.

4. FILL THE PAPER TUBES
Stand the paper tubes on end, open end up. Using a small funnel and a measuring
spoon 1/2 teaspoon, fill the paper tubes 1/2 to 2/3 full. Do not fill the tubes
completely full or pack in the flash powder. By leaving an air space there is
room for the flash powder to expand when ignited which will produce a much
louder explosion. 

5. INSERT THE FINAL END PLUG
Plug the open end in the same way that you plugged the first end.

MATERIALS NEEDED FOR ONE M-80

1. One paper tube, 1/2 inch inside diameter, 1/16 inch wall thickness,
1 1/2 inches long.

2. Two paper end plugs 1/2 inch outside diameter, 1/16 inch paper thickness.

3. One 3/32 diameter water proof fuse about 1 1/2 inches long.

4. 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder.

5. 10 drops of Elmer's glue.

      __   ___________   __
end     |       o       |   end
plug  __|  ___________  |__ plug

           fuse ^ hole

                |
          ______|_____
         |M80 or M100 |
         |____________|


MATERIALS NEED FOR ONE M-100
----------------------------

1. One paper tube, 5/8 inch inside diameter, 1 3/4 inch long

2. Two paper end plugs 5/8 inch outside diameter.

3. One water proof fuse about 1 1/2 inches long.

4. 1 1/2 teaspoons of flash powder.

5. 10 drops of Elmer's glue

CHEMICALS
---------
Most of the chemicals you need are sold at K-mart, hardware stores, drug stores,
lumber yards, plumbing supply, Wall-mart, cement company and many other stores.

Sodium Chlorate. O2 solid oxygen pellets are used in small work shop torches.

Potassium Nitrate. Sold by most drug stores in 4 ounce bottles. Also sold by
farmers co-op supply stores.

Sulfur. Sold by farmers co-op, drug stores and lawn and garden centers.

Aluminum Powder. Sold by paint stores and auto parts stores. Aluminum powder
can be found in radiator stop leak.

Sodium Nitrate. Sold by drug stores and meat packing plants.

Antimony Sulfide. Is sold by most plumbing supply stores.

Potassium Permanganate. It is used for water treatment. Check your phone book
for water treatment equipment and supplies.

Ammonium Nitrate. Can be bought from any farmers co-op or lawn and garden
center.

Red Phosphorus. The white tip on wooden kitchen matches contains red phosphorus

Check your phone book yellow pages for industrial chemical supplies, they will
usually have most of these chemicals.

When you call, tell them you are with a beginning rock band and want it for
some special effects on stage. They will fall for that every time...

Now you probably wonder where you can get the paper tubes and end caps. Ok
just write:

FULL AUTO CO. INC.
P.O. Box 1881
Murfreesboro, TN. 37133

And ask for a catalog. M-80 size tubes are 100-$5. End plugs are 200-$3.5
M-100 size tubes are 100-$9. End plugs are 200-$5.  You must have an order
form to order this. They also sell all the chemicals you need to make
flash powder.  You must be over 21 or at least sign the order that says that
you are 21.  There is no way that they can find out.  I DO NOT suggest that you
buy their water proof fuse because it sucks!  Go to a gun shop in your area and
ask for cannon fuse.  It's probably around 35 to 40 cents a foot and is water
proof and MUCH better quality.  You do have to be 16 or 18 to buy it.



[ ] *TWENTY WAYS TO DISRUPT SCHOOL ASSEMBLIES*

     Basically anti-social, anti-establishment?  Hate school?  Who doesn't!
Here's 20 things to screw up those JOCK-O-RAMA pep rallies and various other
senseless assemblies in your fascist school...just TRY to have fun..

 1.  When the cheerleaders start bouncing (literally) around trying to get all
     the wretched students to do their demonic, assinine chants (Beat 'em up 
     beat 'em up, rah rah rah!  Snap those spinal cords, ha ha ha!" , you
     should get everyone to chant something like "The New Discipline Management
     Plan SUCKS - The New Discipline Management Plan SUCKS!" etc.

 2.  When the cheerleaders yell, "Are you ready!??"--You yell reeeal loud,
     "NO!"

 3.  After their cheers yell stuff like, "Violence Rulez! Guns R cool! 
     And we've got guns, in our school!"

 4.  Yell cheerleader, twirlers, football players names when they are
     introduced or just simply to embarrass them...

 5.  Stand up and ask in a loud voice for one of the cheerleaders to marry you.

 6.  Say in a loud voice, "I gotta go to the bathroom!" then walk down in the
     middle of the pep rally and leave.
     If they try to stop you, just start hoping up and down like you can't hold
     it...They'll let ya go...when they say, "ok, you can go!", run as fast as       you can to a 
remote bathroom(i.e.-home) where they can't follow you...

 7.  When a twirler drops her baton or a cheerleader messes up, laugh as loud
     as you can...i mean REALLY LAUGH HARD!

 8.  If like the principle comes up behind you and sits, turn around and say,
     "Ok, Mr. So-n-So, on the count of three yell, Down with Mr. So-n-So
     (his name in both places)

 9.  Get those air horns and rig it up to where when someone sits down, it'll
     go off....everone will look around dumbfounded to see who's doing it...
     They'll never know...

10.  Water Balloons is a definate possibly, but i don't suggest it...yesterday
     at ours, i was playing with this purple balloon like a beachball...ya
     know, bouncing it between people and 'accidently' letting it get away from
     you where hopefully someone will pop it...or you could just pop a few
     yourself

11.  If you're terribly brave or stupid you can stand up and yell, "East
     Lubbock/Wherever Rulez!" or "Beaners suck!"

12.  The airhead cheerleaders ask you to yell, right?  Yell at all times...
     even when it's supposed to be semi-quiet...

13.  Make a fire.

14.  Spray the cheerleaders pom-poms with that dog training stuff or fart spray

15.  If you're in the band, play the music that you think is more suiting for a
     pep rally...

16.  Scream anti-scholastic things during the school song

17.  DO a complete reversal and dance to the fight song...(this one is good if
     you are sitting near the front or the middle)...just stand up and dance
     and sing the words if ya know 'em!

18.  (this one is unlikely for some reason...) Write your name or the opposing
     teams name on the gym/football field with like kerosine and light'er up!

19.  Get snap -n- pops and sit at the top and throw 'em at everone.(heh)

20.  Lock 'em up!  That's right! Get chains and lock all doors to the gym...
     ..then ya got 2000 angry students with only 15 teachers..I dunno who would
     want out worse, the students or the teachers...heh.


  (I tried alot of these for the first pep rally of the season at my stupid
  private school...I didn't get to try the things that required planning
  (burning the school down, lock ups, air horn, ect) but I did do all of the
  yells and dancing and proposing marriage, chanting, singing, ect.)

  Thanks to myself for writing this file, and the corrupt administrators for
  giving me something to write about...


[ ] * How to have fun at school *

Your first day of school you should bring the following items, to insure a
prosperous school year:

   1) Fountain pen (and extra ink refills)
   2) 3 tubes of Super Glue (Krazy Glue)
   3) Pennies (about $1.00 worth)
   4) Baloons (small sized for convieniance)
   5) Mirror (small hand held)
   6) Liquid soap
   7) Lighter, (matches as alternate)
   8) Firecrackers (ladyfingers are great)
   9) Screwdrivers and other tools (small)
  10) Small squeezable bottles (like nasal de-congestant type)
  11) Wire (10-20 ft)
  12) Tape recorder mic. (batter operated pref.)
  13) Ziplock baggies
  14) Half of an orange
  15) Ligth bulb (75 watts and over are great)

This will do for now... Some of the cool things to do are, take the pennies
and glue them to the cafeteria tables, (and watch the custodians try to get
'em off). (this also looks good with silver dollars glued to the fire alarm
(so it goes off when the custodian attempts to remove the coin) and to a door
someplace.... (principals preferably))

Another thing to do with a coin is, heat it up over a bunson burner (in chem)
and just as the bell rings, toss the coin into the hall, I will guarantee you
will know when the coin is picked up... While your using the bunson burner,
fill your little squeeze bottle with gas, then cap it tight and put it in your
pocket... later, take a firecracker, and glue it to the bottle, use a
cigarette as a fuse extension, then put it in the bathroom, and get to class
fast... (gas and glue make a nice flame)...

While your in the bathroom, place a light bulb over the door, and when the
superintendant goes to see what the explosion was, he gets a nice little
surprise...

Now for the wire, if you can access a room near your locker, when no one is in
the room, take off the speaker cover on the pa system, and hook 2 wires from
it, to your mic. ( then into your locker) This is good for getting your
friends out of classes... Just ask for them... (use your tools for that one,
and try to be neat about it)...

Now for your mirror, you can use this for getting your, uh... "Friends" locker
combanation.... after you get that, take that little baggie you got, and put
the orange in it... let it sit for a week or four, then open the baggie, and
place it in your friends locker... I can guarentee he/she will love it...

Another thing that is fun to do, is, Take a penny, and glue it over the key
hole on your friends gym locker, just after he goes out, thus he has to truck
around all day in his gym stuff, (unless you rent him your screwdriver to pry
the penny off)

Ballons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas that you get
out of the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the baloon tight, and drop it
out the window to the burnouts below, you know, the ones that are always
smoking, they love to pop baloons with lit cigaretts.... get the picture?
Good...

Those fountain pens are cool, because if you make a slight jerking motion with
your hand, ink squirts all over the room, (or person, what ever your aiming
at) It is a good idea not to let the teachers know you have one of those, it
makes it too easy to find out who did it when theres ink all over the
principals face... (or on the floors, walls, and ceilings...)

Liquid soap is great for use in crowded hallways, it turns everybody into a
ice skating star, (works especially well when people come in from the rain)...
If your school is anything like the one I goto, people never flush the
toiletts, A little liquid soap in here makes for a nice surprise, I mean, what
happens when the soap is not flushed out of the toilett, and the suds are'nt
flushed out either? The janitors have a really good time trying to figure out
that one... (glue a quarter in one of the urinals, always ane)... Turn off the
water under the sinks too... Getting back to the soap, it is also good on the
hand railings in hallways and on steps, If you mix perfume with it, some poor
grub has to have that stench on him all day....

I shall start off with some of the cool aspects of a school cafeteria. As most
of you know, this is not a very nice place, or atleast it's not very nice in my
school., you have to get out there and catch the food before it gets away...
but in any case...

1) School Cafeterias: In this ever growing world of terrorism, and practical
jokes, you should learn the basic methods and uses of ketchup. This red stuff
that they use to cover the mold on the french-fries, makes a nice stain on
peoples clothing. So... take a few packets of ketchup, and during phys. Ed.
you take the pack and put little holes in it, then put it in someones back
pocket, (preferably white pants), do this while they are out in the gym, and
you are alone in the locker room... It's a gas when they get up after pulling
their pants on and there 'Bleeding...'...

2) Marbles are very cool... especially glass ones and steel ones, what you do
is, get into your 'Friends' locker and (if he/she has a shelf) take a book and
brace it up at an angle, and leave them alot of marbles to play with... so
when they open their locker, they should have no problem watching them spill
all over the floor... then they get little questions like 'Hey man, did you
loose all your marbles?' and 'Is this a throw back to your child hood?'. This
is even better when they have to go out in the middle of a class period and
when all the marbles fall out he has teachers all over him asking 'What do you
think your doing?' and the ever popular 'Wheres your pass?'...

3) You can improve on the marbles scheme by using water/perfume filled baloons
or plastic baggies. 'Cause, howd you like to go around smelling like a flower
all day long (if your a boy), if your a girl, then your a wet flower... your
'Friend' walks down the hallway 'Squish. Squish Squish' from all the water in
their sneakers...

4) Do any of your parents have old contact lens fluid bottles? (small) If so
then your in luck... if you fill these with water and walk down a crowded hall
you can have alot of fun... Spray your victem so it looks like he/she took a
leak in thier pants... in a crowded hall-way, the'll never notice till someone
says.. 'Hey, Professor Leaky... Turn off the faucets...'... If you want to be
even meaner, then you can take the bottle and fill it with the juices from a
rotten egg.. now its' one thing to piss in your pants, but if you go around
smelling like rotten eggs all day, whew... I can almost guarntee a suspension
or a free trip home... (very embarrasing)...

5) During your free period, goto a pay phone and call the front office, and
have your victim paged to the front office... tell the front office that you
are the boy/girls father and your coming to pick them up for an emergency
doctors appointment... and to go and get his/her books... then they sit in the
front office for 1/2 an hour, (and miss class).. then they say  ' Hey, did you
and some of your friends pull this stunt so you wouldnt have to goto
class?!?!.. Goto the principals office NOW!' Good 'eh?

6) Heres some fun to have at the library... goto the magazine rack and replace
the Sports Ill. and the other widely read magazines with Playboy and some of
the others... (rip off the Sports. Ill. cover and put Playboy inside) You
should see the expressions on the girls faces when they open that sucker up...
(or on the teachers faces)...

7) Hide a cheap radio ($3.00 things that you get from radio shack (am)) and
set it to blast when the locker is opend. (set it on some queer station) To
set the wiring up.. Open up the radio and disconnect one of the wires going to
the switch, turn the switch on. Now take the wire you just disconnected and
run it to another switch, and a wire from the other end of that switch to the
old switch... now tape the switch into the locker in a way that whenever the
locker is opend, the switch will go on, and whenever the door closes, the
switch will go off... this is embarrasing, especially when you cant find the
radio to turn it off...

Have you ever noticed that the water fountains in schools have two holes in
them (for the water to come out of)... I have no idea why they are there...
(maybe some one put them there for us to put to some GOOD use), take some
chewing gum and plug up the bottom hole, this is great because that forces the
water out of the top hole at HIGH PRESSURE thus getting alot of people wet
(espoecially the person getting the drink)... to give you an estimate of how
much power there is, in our school, the auto shop ceiling is about 20 ft up,
and when the gum is in place the water hits the ceiling (if it wasnt there it
would continue another 5 to 10 feet...)

You people have all seen those little toy pellet guns that shoot the little
yellow plastic BB's... well, these are good in the hallways between classes
(or out the windows at the people that are cutting classes) just be carefull not
to hit people in the eyes... (un-less it is intentional)

I dont know if this is standard in all schools (I suppose this will pertain to
some of you), you may have these long 'Airconditioner/Heaters' (they never
work) BUT... in our school these heaps of junk have a small opening for a 5/32
Allen key, these are usefull for turning off the cold air in the winter and
turning it on in the warmer months...)

Itching powder is fun... (especialy if theres someone in front of you in a
class or two that you dont like..) just dump a little of this down there back.
WHAT? You dont have any... well, as I said before, I work in a hardware store
and I can tell you for a FACT that the fiberglass in isulation itches ALL DAY!
all you have to do is get some insulation and shake it out onto a peice of
newspaper (tear it up a little if you have to) and soon you will have a small
pile of shards of fiberglass.. put it into a small baggie or film container,
and keep it in class with you... NOTE: Use gloves when you do this... this
WILL drive you insane by the end of the day if you get any into your hands...

Do you have any dead animals laying around? A dead rat or some animal you have
scraped up off the road? If not you should have one... you take them into the
bathrooms at school and lift off the top (exposing the flush mechanism) and
you insert the animal into there... if it's warm, and moist then this animal
will start to rot, and smell extreamly bad... you may get lucky (if they cant
find it) you MAY even get a day off from school while they look for it...

Hey, if your school has a computer classroom that has a small multi-plexer (so
the teacher can see what you are doing)... well.. have some fun.. change the
cables around so the teacher does not know who she is looking at (or you can
make your terminal the master terminal.

      *Bathroom Bombs*
	Materials:  A birthday or other small candle
	            1 M-80
	            Silly Putty

	Scrape off the bottom of the candle so that a half inch wick is on the
  bottom. Tie the end of the wick to the fuse of the M-80. Place a small
  ammount of silly putty on one side of the candle, and a small ammount on one
  side of the M-80.  Use as little as possible, just enough to make it stick!
  Now the hard part, you need to lean over and stick the candle and the M-80 to
  the underside of the toilet. Be careful and make sure no one is going to
  dunk you. Light the candle and get out of the bathroom as calmly as possible.
  You have anywhere from thirty seconds to one minute so you have time to wash
  your hands and act normal. Make sure that you are nowhere NEAR the bathroom
  because the teachers will interogate anyone in the vicinity of the area.


	Now you can have a BLAST at school! (Litterally)

    *The Cigarette Flash*
	Materials:  Filterless Cigarette
	            Lighter
                    Small Viel of Thinner
	            Matchbook

	This on is FUN! Splash the thinner all over the toilet paper in the
  stall. Open the matchbook and place the cigarette in the match book so 
  that the matchbook holds the cigarette in place firmly. Place the 
  combination matchbook/cigarette under the toilet paper any way you can fit
  it in there. Now the fun part. Light the cigarette and get out of the stall 
  calmly. With this you have between two and five minutes (2-5) so you have
  plenty of time to act normal and leave the bathroom at a steady pace!!

	/\
       /CC\
      /   \\   <---- Place the cigarette between the top and the matches
     /     \\

     ___________
     | TTTTTTT |
     | TTTTTTT | <---- Put the matchbook/cigarette under the thinner soaked
     |  Match  |          toilet paper.
     -----------	

	Now have FUN! And be smart....don't spill the thinner all over
  yourself unless you want to burn in hell (Pun)!!	Hello! And welcome 
to...ummm...issue #6 of Firecracker FUN! In
  this issue we will discuss the FLAMER which is the final issue of mild
  firecracker fun. The next 5-8 issues will be called: "Flaming GLORY!"
  and will hols some more potent things OTHER THAN firecrackers and oil!
  Sooo....I hope that you enjoyed this series and I REALLY hope that you
  look forward to all my future series and issues!

	Materials:  1/4 gallon gasoline
		    1/4 gallon oil
		    6 inch candle
		    LOTS of toilet paper!!!

	This one is scary....and FUN! At home mix the 1/4 gallon of 
  gasoline with the 1/4 gallon of oil. Place the mixture in a gallon bag
  that is easy to conceal. At school put the toilet paper in the toilet 
  until it reaches the level of the water. Take the candle and place it 
  firmly into the toilet paper so that it will stay upright for about 5
  minutes. After all that slowly pour the mixture gas/oil into the toilet.
  Light the candle and you will have 10-15 minutes to get out. This one is
  pretty scary if you are in the bathroom at the time! There is NO noise 
  but if you are anywhere NEAR the stall you will see a LARGE flame leap
  up into the air!! KEWL!

[ ] * Fun with Fireworks *

	There are MANY ways to have fun with firecrackers....but the best
  are when you can actually use them. My favorite ways are the Tube, the
  rocket, and the big bang. 

	The tube us a relatively normal arrangement...just that all the 
  bottle rockets should go off at the same time. But what you do is take 
  three or four bottle rockets (the kind with the plastic caps) and fill 
  the caps with some type of contact explosive. Then tape them all together 
  with duct or electric tape. Then tie all the fuses together and place 
  into a metal tube. Light fuse and have fun....try not to blow off your 
  hand or other body part! By the way....you do not really need to fill
  the cap with an explosive....but it add's to the BANG!! 

	---------000000>   <---- Fill cap with contact explosive

        ---------00XX00>
        ---------00XX00>   <---- Tape all together!
        ---------00XX00>

        ---------00XX00>
	---------00XX00>   <---- Tie all fuses together
	---------00XX00>

        Place them in a pipe and have fun


       *The Rocket*
	Materials:   A 2 or 3 Stage Rocket
		     Superglue
		     Tape
		     Shredded Paper
		     M-80 firecracker
                     All other equipment for launching
   
	Any 2 or 3 stage rocket will work fine. You must be willing to 
  to loose a rocket so I suggest not painting, because it would be just
  a waste of time and money. You can get a good 3 stage rocket for under
  $30 and the M-80's you can buy at almost any firecracker store for 
  between $.80 - $1.00!!

	First put the rocket together. Then place the boosters in the 
  bottom stage(s). In the uppermost stage glue the M-80 into place with
  the fuse pointing downward. Place the end of the fuse onto the upper 
  part of the adjoining booster and tape it into place with a small piece
  of tape. Fill the paracute area sparcely with shredded paper. Wait until
  the glue holding the M-80 dries and then finish putting the rocket 
  together. Now you are ready to go! But be smart...don't launch the rocket
  in someone's face or into a building unless you are willing to take
  responsibility for it! And try not to kill yourself in the process!

	What is supposed to happen is as you launch the rocket the first
  stage's booster burns with an extremely high intensty and heat. As the
  booster nears the to it ignites a flameable substance that pushes upward
  igniting the booster above it and ejecting it from the rest of the rocket.
  When the substance shoots upward into the M-80 it will ignite the fuse or
  it will detonate the M-80 immediatly (I am not sure which). Then as the 
  M-80 detonates it will blow the cap of the rocket off ejecting anything
  in the paracute chamber.

   BBBBOOOOOOO>   <---- Place booster in the bottom stage(s)
   BBBBM-80OOO>   <---- Glue M-80 in stage above booster and tape fuse
   BBBBM-80PPP>   <---- Put shredded paper in paracute chamber

        
        *Big BANG*
	 Materials:  10-15 M-80's
	            Long fuse...2 feet
	            Duct or Electric Tape
		    LUCK!!!

	Ok. Now. Put all the M-80's into a circle packed as tightly 
  together as possible. Next put two or even three layers of tape arround
  the group of M-80's. Connect all the fuses together pointing inward and
  tie (If you tape it use as little tape as possible) it to the long 
  piece of fuse. Then place upright or if you want to have fun, bury it a
  foot underground (if you do this you must have a straw or a pipe leading
  the fuse into the ground) and light the fuse. Now what you have here is 
  like two or three sticks of dynamite, so get as far away as possible 
  and hit the ground!! The explosion will be a HELL of a lot louder than
  a small stick of dynamite so cover your ears, don't be a hero and go 
  deaf!


[ ] *How To Make Low Explosives*

There are many formulas for low explosives, which, although they do not have the
power or impact of the high explosives, are generally safer to use and handle.
It may seem at first that an explosive compound that has less power is a
disadvantage, but this is not true. If a high-explosive charge were used to set
off a bullet in a gun, the gun would probably explode in the user's face.
Therefore, low explosives have a definite purpose and use, and are not
interchangeable with high explosives. Although I stated above that, generally
speaking, low explosives are more stable than high explosives, there are some
low-explosive compounds that are as dangerous as high-explosive compounds,
if not more so. Below is a chart of the most common low-explosive compounds and
their stabilities and merit.

[Potassium and sodium nitrate gunpowders]: These are without a doubt one of
        the safest low explosives to handle. They are especially good when 
        packed into a tight container, and exploded under pressure.
[Smokeless powder]: This type of low explosive is much like the one mentioned
        above, in the sense that it is extremely stable, but it is much more
        powerful. It also needs the element of pressure in the actual
        demolition work.
[Potassium chlorates with sulfates]: Any mixture of potassium or sodium
        chlorates should be avoided at all costs, since most combinations will
        explode immediately, on formation, and those that don't are extremely
        unstable and likely to explode at any time.
[Ammonium nitrate with chlorates]: This is similar to the compounds discussed
        above. These are extremely hazardous compounds, with very unstable
        ingredients.
[Potassium chlorate and red phosphorus]: This combination is probably the
        most unstable and highly sensitive of all the low explosives. It will
        explode immediately and violently upon formation, even in the open
        when not under pressure.
[Aluminum or megnesium with potassium chlorate or sodium peroxide]: Any of
        these combinations, although not quite as unstable as the one
        discussed above, is still too sensitive to experiment or play around
        with.
[Barium chlorate with shellac gums]: Any mixture employing either barium or
        barium nitrate and carbon, or barium chlorate and any other substance,
        must be given great care. Barium nitrate and strontium nitrate mixed
        together form a very sensitive explosive, but the danger is greatly
        increased with the addition of charcoal, or carbon.
[Barium and strontium nitrate with aluminum and potassium perchlorate]: This
        combination is relatively safe, as is the combination of barium
        nitrate and sulfur, potassium nitrate, and most other powdered metals.
[Guanidine nitrate and a combustible]: This combination of guanidine nitrate
        and a combustible (i.e. powdered antimony) is one of the safest of all
        low explosives.
[Potassium bichromate and potassium permanganate]: This is a very sensitive
        and unstable compound, and should be avoided, as it is really too
        hazardous to work with or handle.

        The low-explosive reaction is based on the principle of a combustible
material combined with an oxidizing agent, in other words combining a material
that burns easily with another material which in the chemical reaction will
supply the necessary oxygen for the combustible's consumption. Listed below
are the most common low-explosive combinations of oxidizing agents and
combustibles. The first ingredient listed is the oxidizer, and the second is
the combustible:
        [1> Nitric acid and resin.
        [2> Barium nitrate and magnesium.
        [3> Ammonium nitrate and powdered aluminum.
        [4> Barium peroxide and zinc dust.
        [5> Ammonium perchlorate and asphaltum.
        [6> Sodium chlorate and shellac gum.
        [7> Potassium nitrate and charcoal.
        [8> Sodium peroxide and flowers of sulfur.
        [9> Magnesium perchlorate and woodmeal.
       [10> Potassium perchlorate and cane sugar.
       [11> Sodium nitrate and sulfur flour.
       [12> Potassium bichromate and antimony sulfide.
       [13> Guanidine nitrate and powdered antimony.
       [14> Potassium chlorate and red phosphorus.
       [15> Potassium permanganate and powdered sugar.
       [16> Barium chlorate and parrafin wax.

        The combinations that are most unstable and sensitive are numbers
        3, 5, 7, 13, 14, 15, and 16. These should be avoided.

[ ] * How to Make Nitroglycerine

    As most people know, nitroglycerin is an extremely powerful explosive,
used largely today by industry, and made in huge cement mixers that hold
hundreds of gallons.  It is not safe to make, and you shouldn't even think of
making any unless you plan to use it (and don't make more than you need).  I
hope anyone who does make some has had atleast some chemistry and a little bit
of brains.

MATERIALS:
    1) 70% concentrated nitric acid
    2) 98% concentrated sulfuric acid
    3) Glycerin
    4) Baking soda
    5) A *GOOD* thermometer and glassware (beakers, glass rod-stirring device,
  test tubes, eyedropper, whatever--must be all glass materials though.
  Acid eats everything else.  Also, whatever you use to hold your
  solutions should have as thin a glass wall as possible--to diffuse heat
  faster.)
    6) Very large ice-bath
    7) Gloves, Goggles, etc.
    8) Blue litmus paper
    9) Kitchen sink

OBTAINING MATERIALS:
    Nitric acid can be bought for about $19+ per gallon (it's cheaper to buy
in this quantity).  You need to be 21, but some chemical places don't care.
    Sulfuric acid can be bought the same way, at $14+ per gallon.
    Glycerine can be bought at any drug store.  You won't need half as much
glycerine as acid.  The actual quantity and ratio varies--and is really
unimportant in this recipe.
    The thermometer and glassware, etc., can be bought by anyone, but it's
cheaper to 'borrow' from chem lab.  If you have to buy, there should be a
place near any college campus that sells the stuff.

THE REACTION:

  H
  !
H-C-O-NO2
  !
H-C-O-NO2 ===========>     N2 + CO2 + O2 + H2O
  !
H-C-O-NO2
  !
  H

PROCEDURE:
    1)  Mix by volume 3 parts sulfuric acid with 1 part nitric.  Add the
sulfuric to the nitric *NOT* vice versa (you never add water to acid because
it splatters, and the nitric is 30% water).  Your beaker/test tube should be
contained in the ice bath because this solution is gets *HOT*--but isn't
dangerous, yet.  Stir a little bit, but don't put your face right over it
(vapors). Wait til it cools to 0-5 degrees centigrade.  You'll need to rig
some kind of contraption, if you don't have the proper lab equipment, in order
to keep the thermometer from touching the edge of the beaker/test tube--an
accurate reading is *VERY* important.
    2)  Once the acids are cool enough you can start adding glycerin.  While
stirring constantly, use the eyedropper and add about 5 drops.  If the heat
doesn't rise, add 8 drops, and see what happens.  Keep adding larger amounts
until the temperature rises.  Once it does, wait (don't stop stirring til at
least 30 seconds after adding glycerine) for the temperature to drop back down
to 0-5 degreees centigrade.  DON'T EVER LET THE TEMPERATURE GET ABOVE 30
DEGREES CENTIGRADE--If you do, you lose.  It might not blow up, but it will
decompose, and you'll get nothing but garbage (the person who designed this
recipe has had it go as high as 40 and not explode).  To be safe, keep it
below 20 degrees centigrade, and if it gets above that, dump the whole thing
in the ice bath (there better be plenty of ice too, cause sulfur and water
react, and you need plenty of ioce to keep that reaction cool).  The
nitroglycerin reaction is done when the glycerine you add no longer affects the
temperature.
    3)  The nitroglycerin is slowly decomposing at this point, so you want to
work fast here.  The sulfuric has only been a catalyst for the reaction and
needs to be washed out.  Fill a container 10x the volume of your solution with
ice water (again, ice is important cause sulfur and water react giving off
enough heat to set off the nitro) and add your solution to it.  Stir
thoroughly (nitro and water don't mix).  Let the nitro seperate (it will
settle to the bottom) and pour off the water (acids and all) down the drain.
Put your saolution under the tap and add more water.  Stir again and let
settle (settling can be helped by adding a little of ordinary dishsoap--like
half a drop).  Pour off again.  Repeat the process 3 or 4 times.  Make sure
*ALL* the water is poured off (to get the last little bit, try dragging paper
it stays blue, everything is fine.  If it turns red, wash your solution a few
more times.
    4)  After the solution is 'clean', wash with a baking soda solution (1
tsp./ quart of water).  Follow the same steps outlined above, but only wash
once.  Pour your final solution into a glass bottle.  Put in the fridge.

CAUTIONS:
    First of all, store nitroglycerin in a cool place--like the fridge (or try
the freezer.  I don't know what the freezing point is).  Label it so nobody
accidently dumps it or drinks it.  If you still live at home, then bury it in
the fridge and disguise it so your parents wouldn't want to touch it or
examine it.  You don't really need to keep it that cold.  You could fairly
safely store it in your closet.  Although if you live in an area with extreme
heat (like Palm Springs) it might not be a good idea.  Don't breath the vapors
or swallow any--you'll get a short but incredible headache.  If you touch some
you'll get the headache of your life that will last up to 12 hours.

DETONATION:
    What you wil probably want to try as soon as you make nitroglycerin is a
simple little experiment to prove to yourself it works.  Put *ONE* drop on a
paper towell and strike with a hammer.
    Nitro, in this form, is not all that easy to blow up.  Throwing a bottle
of the stuff at a wall or dropping it off a five story building will do
nothing more than break the bottle.  The best way to detonate nitroglycerin is
with a wax coated firecracker taped on the inside of your container.

VARIATIONS:
    Putty-  Mix your final solution with sawdust or diatomacious earth (which
you can get at pool stores) to the consistency of silly putty.  All this does
is make your nitro easier to work with.

    Flash Paper-  This is a little more difficult to make, a little safer, and
maybe more fun.  Instead of adding glycerin to your acids in step 2, use gun
cotton (*REAL* cotton).  You don't have to watch the temperature either.  Just
toss a bunch of cotton in and let it soak up your solution  (don't be stupid
though--add them slowly the first time).  You don't need to be in as much of a
rush either because it doesn't decompose as fast.  You're nitrating the
cotton, so let it sit a couple hours in the mix.  Then pour off all the acid
and wash in water (the same way you wash regular nitro), then after it's
fairly clean you can pull out the cotton  and wash by hand--*VERY WELL*.  Let
the cotton dry out, then put a piece in a jar with a very small amount of
acitone (which you can purchase at any hardware store and is perfectly safe).
The cotton will dissolve like cotton candy in water.  Any cotton left in the
jar should be taken out.  Now let the acitone evaporate.  There will be a
small plastic-like film at the bottom of the jar.  You can light this stuff
like flash paper.
    Jelly-  If you are brave you can dissolve the 'flash paper' in nitro and
get a jelly like substance that is quite powerful and easier to work with.
Use very little nitro and a lot of 'flash paper' (you'll have to experiment to
find what works best for the consistency you want.

[ ] * How to make Nitroglycerine #2 * 
1.  Fill a 75-milliliter beaker, to the 13-ml level, with fuming red Nitric
    Acid, of 98 percent concentration
2.  Place beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room temperature
3.  After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of fuming Nitric
    Acid 39 milliliters of fuming Sulfuric Acid.  When mixing any acids,
    always do it slowly and carefully to avoid splattering.
4.  When the two are mixed, lower their temperature by adding more ice to the 
    ice bath, to about 10 or 15 degrees centigrade.  This can be measured by
    using a mercury-operated centigrade thermometer.
5.  When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature, it is ready
    for the Glycerine.  The Glycerine must be added in small amounts using a 
    medicine dropper.  Glycerine is added, slowly and carefully, until the
    entire surface is covered with it.
6.  This is a dangerous point, since the nitration will take place soon as
    the Glycerine is added.  The nitration will produce heat, so the solution
    must be kept below 30 degrees Celsius.  If the beaker should go above
    30 degrees, the beaker should be taken out of the ice bath and the
    solution should be carefully poured directly into the ice bath, since
    this will prevent an explosion
7.  For about the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be
    gently stirred.  In a normal reaction, the Nitroglycerine will form a
    layer on top of the acid solution, while the Sulfuric Acid absorbs the
    excess water.
8.  After the nitration has taken place and the Nitroglycerine has formed at
    the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be transferred very
    slowly and carefully to another beaker of water.  When this is done the
    Nitroglycerine will settle to the bottom, so that most of the acid
    solution can be drained away.
9.  After moving as much acid as possible without disturbing the
    Nitroglycerine, remove the Nitroglycerine with an eyedroper and place it
    in a bicarbonate of soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) solution.  The Sodium
    Bicarbonate is an alkali and will nutralize much of the acid remaining.
    This process should be repeated as many times as necessary using blue
    litmus paper to check for the presence of acid.  The remaining acid only
    makes the Nitroglycerine more unstable then it normally is.
10. The final step is to remove the Nitroglycerine from the bicarbonate this
    is done with an eyedropper, slowly and carefully.  The usual test to see
    if nitration has been successful is to place one drop of the
    Nitroglycerine on a metal plate and ignite it.  If it is true
    Nitroglycerine it will burn with a clear blue flame.  Caution:
    Nitroglycerine is extremely sensitive to decomposition, heating,
    dropping, or jarring, and may explode even left undisturbed and cool.
    Know what you are doing before you make this stuff.

[*Nitroglycerine #3*]

     Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not
the most sensitive.  Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult.
Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to
make the stuff.  When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the
all-to-frequent factory explosions.  Usually, as soon as it is made, it is
converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite.  An idiot who attempts
to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:
 
     MATERIAL               EQUIPMENT
 
     distilled water        eye-dropper
     table salt             100 ml beaker
     sodium bicarbonate     200-300 ml beakers (2)
     concentrated nitric    ice bath container
     acid (13 ml)           ( a plastic bucket serves well )
     concentrated sulfuric  centigrade thermometer
     acid (39 ml)           blue litmus paper
     glycerine
 
1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.
 
2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about
   a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate
   dissolves.  Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some
   remains undissolved.

3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and
   adding table salt.  This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall
   temperature.

4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of concentrated
   nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker.  Be sure that the beaker will not spill
   into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker
   when more materials are added to it.  Be sure to have a large enough ice bath
   container to add more ice.  Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20
   degrees centigrade or less.
 
5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the
   39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid.  Mix the two acids
   together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade.  It is a good
   idea to start another ice bath to do this.

6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one drop
   at a time.  Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed
   acids and glycerine meet.  DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30
   DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN
   LIKE HELL!!!  The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the
   temperature will immediately begin to rise.  Add glycerine until there is a
   thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids.  It is always safest to
   make any explosive in small quantities.
 
7) adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution
   in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade.  Usually, the
   nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the
   concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.

8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30
   degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine
   and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1.  The
   nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid
   solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the
   acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine.

9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it
   into the beaker in step 2.  The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate
   much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less
   likely to explode for no reason, which it can do.  Test the nitroglycerine
   with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue.  Repeat this step if
   necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
 
10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean
    container in a safe place.  The best place to store nitroglycerine is
    far away from anything living, or from anything of any value.
    Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored
    in a secure cool place.


Nitroglyerine

    NITROGLYCERINE IS A *VERY* DANGEROUS SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE. IT IS 
USED 
IN MAKING DYNAMITE, AMONG OTHER THINGS.
    I AM NOT SURE AS TO THE PROPORTIONS AND AMOUNTS OF CHEMICALS TO BE 
USED, SO
 I SHALL USE ESTIMATES.

MATERIALS-
  70ML CONC. SULFURIC ACID
  30ML CONC. NITRIC ACID
  10 ML GLYCERINE
  ICE BATH
  150ML BEAKER

   PUT THE 150ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH AND MAKE SURE THAT IT IS VERY COLD. 
SLO
WLY ADD THE 70ML SULFURIC AND 30ML NITRIC ACIDS TO THE BEAKER, TRYING TO 
MAINTA
IN A LOW TEMPERATURE. WHEN THE TEMPERATURE STARTS TO LEVEL OFF, ADD 
ABOUT 10ML 
GLYCERINE. IF IT TURNS BROWN OR LOOKS FUNNY, **RUN LIKE HELL**. WHEN 
NITROGLYCE
RINE TURNS BROWN, THAT MEANS IT'S READY TO EXPLODE... IF IT STAYS CLEAR AND 
ALL
 WORKS WELL, KEEP THE TEMPERATURE AS LOW AS YOU CAN AND LET IT SIT FOR A 
FEW HO
URS. YOU THEN SHOULD HAVE SOME NITROGLYCERINE, PROBABLY MIXED WITH 
NITRIC AND S
ULFURIC ACIDS. WHEN YOU SET IT OFF, YOU MUST NOT BE NEARBY. NITROGLYCERINE 
CAN 
FILL 10,000 TIMES ITS ORIGINAL AREA WITH EXPANDING GASES. THIS MEANS THAT 
IF YO
U HAVE 10ML'S OF NITROGLYCERINE IN THERE, IT WILL PRODUCE SOME 100,000ML'S 
OF G
ASES.
   TO MAKE IT INTO DYNAMITE, THE NITROGLYCERINE MUST BE ABSORBED INTO 
SOMETHING
 LIKE WOOD PULP OR DIAMAECEOUS EARTH (SPELLED SOMETHING LIKE THAT).


[ ] * Formulas For The Straight Dynamite Series *

        Probably one of the single greatest breakthroughs in explosives came
by accident, when Nobel discovered a primitive form of dynamite. One of the 
primary ingredients of dynamite is nitroglycerine, which has great explosive
power, although it has the disadvantage of being ultrasensitive to heat and
shock. What dynamite does is to combine the high explosive power of nitro with
a stabilizing agent, to render it powerful but safely usable. Nobel developed 
what is called today the straight dynamite series, which is nothing more than 
nitro and a stabilizing agent. The most common straight dynamite formulas
follow (nitroglycerine will be referred to as NG):

[1> NG                  32              [10> NG                 26
    sodium nitrate      28                   potassium nitrate  33
    woodmeal            10                   woodmeal           41
    ammonium oxalate    29
    guncotton            1              [11> NG                 15
                                             sodium nitrate     62.9
[2> NG                  24                   woodmeal           21.2
    potassium nitrate    9                   sodium carbonate     .9
    sodium nitrate      56                 
    woodmeal             9              [12> NG                 35
    ammonium oxalate     2                   sodium nitrate     37
                                             woodmeal           27
[3> NG                  35.5                 ammonium oxalate    1
    potassium nitrate   44.5
    woodmeal             6              [13> NG                 32
    guncotton            2.5                 potassium nitrate  27
    vaseline             5.5                 woodmeal           10
    powdered charcoal    6                   ammonium oxalate   30
                                             guncotton           1
[4> NG                  25
    potassium nitrate   26              [14> NG                 33
    woodmeal            34                   woodmeal           10.3
    barium nitrate       5                   ammonium oxalate   29
    starch              10                   guncotton            .7
                                             potassium perchloride 27
[5> NG                  57              
    potassium nitrate   19              [15> NG                 40
    woodmeal             9                   sodium nitrate     45
    ammonium oxalate    12                   woodmeal           15
    guncotton            3
                                        [16> NG                 47
[6> NG                  18                   starch             50
    sodium nitrate      70                   guncotton           3
    woodmeal             5.5
    potassium chloride   4.5            [17> NG                 30
    chalk                2                   sodium nitrate     22.3
                                             woodmeal           40.5
[7> NG                  26                   potassium chloride  7.2
    woodmeal            40
    barium nitrate      32              [18> NG                 50
    sodium carbonate     2                   sodium nitrate     32.6
                                             woodmeal           17
[8> NG                  44                   ammonium oxalate     .4
    woodmeal            12
    anhydrous sodium sulfate 44         [19> NG                 23
                                             potassium nitrate  27.5
[9> NG                  24                   woodmeal           37
    potassium nitrate   32.5                 ammonium oxalate    8
    woodmeal            33.5                 barium nitrate      4
    ammonium oxalate    10                   calcium carbonate    .5

        The figures given in the right column are percentage parts, adding
up to a sum of 100%. Percentage parts are always based on a weight ratio
rather than volume. When preparing any high-explosive formulas, be sure you
know what you are doing. Have the correct equipment, and the correct
chemicals. Many of these chemicals are sold under brand names, which are more
familiar than their chemical names, but, before assuming anything, read the
ingredients, and take nothing for granted.
        These formulas listed above are for straight dynamite. Straight
dynamite is a very primitive form of what we know today as dynamite. Later
ammonium nitrate was added to the dynamite. This substance produced a 
greater explosive action, but less velocity. The intensification of the
explosive action results because ammonium nitrate furnishes more oxygen for
the dynamite. Ammonium nitrate has not only been used in dynamite, but also
in many other different explosive compounds, including nitroglycerine, 
picric acid, and coal dust. Ammonium nitrate when mixed with these substances 
creates the cheapest form of high explosive known to man.

[ ] *How To Make TNT*

[*TNT*]
      The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.
Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was
made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided
individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act)
would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various
materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large
weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate
could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase
the power.  But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.

     T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high
explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known
high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It
is the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well
known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is
designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the
product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one
step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very
strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very
strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution,
and it is filtered.
        Probably the most inportant explosive compound in use today is
TNT (trinitrotoluene). This and other types of high explosives are all used by
the military, because of their fantastic power--about 2.25 million pounds per
square inch, and their great stability.  TNT also has the great advantage of
being able to be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be poured into shells,
mortars, and any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in containers which
resemble dry-cell batteries, and are usually ignited by an electrical charge,
coupled with an electrical blasting cap, although there are different methods.


[ ] *How To Make Tetryl*

        Tetryl is commonly used in compounds containing TNT, and it works great
by itself. Method for the preperation of tetryl:

   1. A small amount of dimethyllaniline is dissolved in an excess amount of
concentrated sulfuric acid (sulferic acid=battery acid).
   2. This mixture is now added to an equal amount of nitric acid. The new
mixture is kept in an ice bath and is well stirred.
   3. After about five minutes, the tetryl is fltered and washed in cold water.
   4. It is now boiled in fresh water, which contains a small amount of sodium
bicarbonate(baking soda). This process acts to neutralize the remaining acid.
The washings are repeated as many times as necesary according to the litmus
paper tests. When you are satisfied that the tetryl is free of acid, filter it
from the water and allow it to dry. When tetryl is detonated, it reacts in
very much the same way as TNT.

2.0   BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS

     Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and
a pharmacy.  These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in
order to purchase explosive material.  All that one has to do is know something
about the non-explosive uses of the materials.  Black powder, for example,
is used in blackpowder firearms.  It comes in varying "grades", with each
different grade being a slightly different size.  The grade of black powder
depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of
powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon.  The rule is:
the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.

[ ] * BLACK POWDER *
 
     Black powder is generally available in three grades.  As stated before,
the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns.  Burn rate is extremely
important in bombs.  Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in
a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is
desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along
with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in.  Generally,
the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable.  However, the other
grades and uses are listed below:


     GRADE              BORE WIDTH               EXAMPLE OF GUN

     F                  .50 or greater           model cannon; some rifles
     FF                 .36 - .50                large pistols; small rifles
     FFF                .36 or smaller           pistols; derringers

     The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has
more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front.  The larger
grades also have uses which will be discussed later.  The price range of
black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00.  The price is not affected
by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer
grade of powder.  The major problems with black powder are that it can be
ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to
absorb moisture from the air.  To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic
spoon and a wooden salad bowl.  Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would
apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes
or circles, but not too hard.  It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine
as flour.  The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one wishes
to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1
foot by 4 inch radius pipe.  Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone can
own black powder firearms in America.

[ ] * Gun Powder * 
     Charcoal  13%
     Saltpeter 75%
     Sulfur    12%

    -85% Potassium Nitrate                75% Potassium Nitrate
    -12% Charcoal                         15% Charcoal
    -03% Sulfur                           10% Sulfur
(Saltpeter is Sodium Nitrate or Potassium Nitrate)
Mix dry, add water to make past, let dry, then crush to grain.  Do not use
metal object when crushing.  The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder
(seperately!) with a morter ^ pestle.  If gunpowder is ignited in the open,
it burns fiercly, but if in a closed space it builds up pressure from the
released gases and can explode the container.  Gunpowder works like this:
The potassium nitrate oxidized the charcoal and sulfur, which then burn
fiercely.  Carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide are gases released.


[ ] * Formulas For Black Powder *

        Gunpowder is the great-granddaddy of all the rest of the high and
low power explosives, and still to this day is one of the most important
explosives. As with all the rest of the explosive formulas, it seems everyone
has his own recipe, which he claims to be the best. I have collected 11 of the
safer, more functional, methods of preparing gunpowder. The most important 
thing to remember when dealing with black powder is its incredible sensitivity
to sparks.

[1> Potassium perchlorate       69.2    [2> Potassium chlorate          75
    Sulfur                      15.4        Charcoal                    12.5
    Charcoal                    15.4         Sulfur                     12.5

[3> Potassium nitrate           70.4    [4> Potassium nitrate           79
    Sulfur                      19.4        Sulfur                      3
    Sodium sulfate              10.2        Straw charcoal              18

[5> Potassium nitrate           64      [6> Potassium nitrate           70.6
    Sulfur                      12          Sulfur                      23.5
    Lamp black                   7          Antimony sulfate             5.9
    Sawdust                     17

                                        [8> Potassium nitrate           37.5
[7> Potassium nitrate           50          Starch                      37.5
    Ammonium perchlorate        25          Sulfur                      18.75
    Sulfur                      12.5        Antimony powder              6.25
    Charcoal                    12.5

                                        [10> Guanidine nitrate          49
[9> Barium nitrate              75           Potassium nitrate          40
    Sulfur                      12.5         Charcoal                   11
    Charcoal                    12.5

[11> Sodium peroxide            67
     Sodium thiosulphate        33

        When preparing black powder for use in firearms, it is important to
keep in mind that these formulas are more powderful than ordinary potassium
nitrate gunpowder, and for that reason smaller quantities should be used. The
correct amount can only be discovered by trial-and-error experimentation, but
caution must be taken to prevent overloading.
        Although black powder is one of the safest explosives, it has a
disadvantage: It is extremely sensitive to sparks; and it leaves a messy
residue in gun barrels, which necessitates frequent cleaning. The advantage of
smokeless powder is the low-explosive class, which gives off only gaseuous
products upon explosion. The first type of smokeless powder used by the army
was basically nitrocellulose with a small amount of diphenylamine, for
stablizer. Smokeless powder is perhaps the safest of any explosive compound,
and for that reason is extremely popular today.

[ ] * Napalm * 
1.  Fill the bottom container of a houshold double boiler with nothing
2.  Fill the top container with gasoline
3.  Using gentle electric heat, bring the gasoline to a boil
4.  Slowly pour in powdered form soap flakes
5.  Stir the mixture as you pour in the soap flakes
6.  Continue until saturation
7.  Allow the mixture to simmer, and set for a day or so
Everyone knows that Napalm is a substance that will stick to practically
anything and whn ignited will burn for a extremely long time.

[*Napalm #2*]
 
     Napalm is in itself a very simple substance...it can be used for many 
things...(i.e. getting back at your neighor!!)

Materials: 
Gasoline                                Joy or Palmolive(I prefer Joy)
A Coke can with a sawed off top         Ammonia Pellets
A Drill                                 Some bendable wire
A Nail
 
        First,make a mixture of 1/2 Joy(my favorite),and 1/2 Gasoline.
HTake the coke can, and fill it half full with this wonderful mixture...
it should look like this:
 
          -^-^-^-^-^-^-^-
          !             !
          !             ! <-Coke Can
          !             !
          !=============!
          !=============!
          !=============! <-Mixture
          !=============!
          ---------------
 
     Now,take the drill(or some sharp object)and put a hole through the amm-
onia pellet big enough for the nail.. Put the nail through the pelle